Posts: 833
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2006
AZ Engineer summed it all up pretty well.
I have had a spindle moulder (called shaper in USA) since early 2012 and only recently bought a router.
If I was to make do with one of them once again I would keep the spindle moulder no doubt. To me the router is manly a high speed chisel for fitting door and window hardware.
However I don't really see the point in owning a small spindle moulder. The little 3 hp spindle moulder with 30 mm spindle which is part of my 1200 kilo European style combination machine quickly became too small for my needs though I think it would be sufficiently big albeit barely for most users.
A spindle moulder in an even smaller size would combine the disadvantages of both a router table and a spindle moulder. Lack of power and lack of rigidity combined with expensive tooling.
Because I outgrew mine I bought an SCM l'Invincibile T160. A monster sized spindle moulder with 4kW (5.3hp) motor. The whole thing weighs around a metric ton. I hope it will prove to be solid and powerful enough when I start working wood again because there is nothing more heavy duty on the market. Tomorrow I will paint the last parts after a thorough rebuild so soon it will be ready for a test run.
The greatest drawback of spindle moulders is the cost of tooling. You can instantly use up money enough to kit out 10 routers with all tooling needed and still need more tooling after that.
Hence a solid router and router table often makes a much better alternative for hobbyists who aren't in a hurry and can live with all the drawbacks. Money does never ever grow on trees and should it ever do I bet that tree would grow in the courtyard of Fort Knox.
Part timer living on the western coast of Finland. Not a native speaker of English
Posts: 139
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2017
Location: Clarksville, TN
Great replies and for the most part, you've answered the question about which to go for first in my new shop. I have a decent router table I built for a RouterLift FX when I had my shop in MN but I pretty much used it across a couple of saw horses because I never got around to building that Norm Abrahams style router cabinet for it. Now that I have this new shop almost finished and 4 years of saving for tools I'm ready to take the plunge and just by a router table. My heart wants me to splurge on this:
Bench Dog® Cast Iron Router Table, Pro Fence, Steel Cabinet and Plate
I know it isn't cheap... but... but... Cast Iron!
AND It works with my RouterLift FX.
Seriously, I'd like some opinions. I'm not sure I'm thinking straight. I'll probably need to pull the trigger this week before it goes off sale if I'm going to get it.
"Well, my time of not taking you seriously is coming to a middle."
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
(04-25-2017, 04:52 PM)teetomterrific Wrote: Great replies and for the most part, you've answered the question about which to go for first in my new shop. I have a decent router table I built for a RouterLift FX when I had my shop in MN but I pretty much used it across a couple of saw horses because I never got around to building that Norm Abrahams style router cabinet for it. Now that I have this new shop almost finished and 4 years of saving for tools I'm ready to take the plunge and just by a router table. My heart wants me to splurge on this:
Bench Dog® Cast Iron Router Table, Pro Fence, Steel Cabinet and Plate
I know it isn't cheap... but... but... Cast Iron!
AND It works with my RouterLift FX.
Seriously, I'd like some opinions. I'm not sure I'm thinking straight. I'll probably need to pull the trigger this week before it goes off sale if I'm going to get it.
I find it pretty ironic that people will spend as much for a good decent shaper on the used market on a new router setup.
to each his own I suppose
I prefer a small shaper that has the ability to turn larger knives more efficiently over a router table set up to sort of act like an underpowered shaper.
and I have a router table in my shop without all the wiz bang that functions just fine when I do need it.
JME
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
Joe I see you as a guy who would just as soon put the router in the sheet of plywood with the 2x4 fence mode. A lot of years I thought that was the only option. That darn Norm........
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 1,914
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2007
(04-25-2017, 04:52 PM)teetomterrific Wrote: Great replies and for the most part, you've answered the question about which to go for first in my new shop. I have a decent router table I built for a RouterLift FX when I had my shop in MN but I pretty much used it across a couple of saw horses because I never got around to building that Norm Abrahams style router cabinet for it. Now that I have this new shop almost finished and 4 years of saving for tools I'm ready to take the plunge and just by a router table. My heart wants me to splurge on this:
Bench Dog® Cast Iron Router Table, Pro Fence, Steel Cabinet and
You might want to just get the Bench dog cast iron router table "Wing"
http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-cast-ir...-and-plate
A lot less expensive, and takes up a lot less floor space (you replace a tablesaw wing with it).
That is what I ended up doing..
Posts: 139
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2017
Location: Clarksville, TN
(04-28-2017, 12:08 PM)PaulJohnstone Wrote: You might want to just get the Bench dog cast iron router table "Wing"
http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-cast-ir...-and-plate
A lot less expensive, and takes up a lot less floor space (you replace a tablesaw wing with it).
That is what I ended up doing..
That is a valid option and a good suggestion, but I have pre-planned a location in the new shop for a dedicated router table. It's not about the money or space for me. I'm more concerned about workflow patterns and efficiencies. Also, if I were to add a different wing to my Unisaw I think I'd rather it be a sliding table wing.
How do you like the cast iron wing by the way? Did you use any other kind of router table prior to buying it so you have a comparison perspective?
Tom
"Well, my time of not taking you seriously is coming to a middle."
Posts: 12,299
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2006
Anyone here ever use a small power feeder on a router table? Something like the Grizzly "Baby" power feeder?
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
I have a 1/2 hp three wheel that I have mounted to my RT
It takes very little to overload my 3 hp PC router with bits larger in diameter than 1"
you in essence end up making multiple passes by raising the bit or moving the fence
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 12,299
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2006
Thanks Joe. I have a Delta HD shaper with power feed, that I seem to use far more than my Kreg table, with a 3HP PC router motor. Fleeting thought about the RT early this morning. For the investment into a feeder, I can buy a crapload more shaper cutters.
Posts: 402
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2010
(05-01-2017, 04:04 AM)Tony Z Wrote: Anyone here ever use a small power feeder on a router table? Something like the Grizzly "Baby" power feeder?
I use a tiny Delta Versa Feeder on a router table. I only use it for curved work, such as pattern routing and running small curved parts by a cutter. I tilt the feeder so that one wheel touches the work, and aim the wheel to push the work at the pilot bearing.