Posts: 1,289
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Mobile, Alabama
"All Surface" (red can) is correct. I mis-remembered the label. Sorry.
I'm not real excited about using 0000 on it. My son hasn't seen it yet. It will depend on what he wants to do. I probably won't even mention it unless he says he doesn't like it.
Posts: 2,773
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: W. of Rainier, E. of Orcas
That's a nice plant stand!
Up here in the Puget Sound area local Western Cedar is the outdoor wood. I made two chairs, researched the devil out of "outdoor clear" finish. Settled on one using Epifanes only, and the other with an Epoxy base coat plus Epifanes. They look okay, just that cedar is typically left to weather natively....
Second year the chair with Epoxy was shedding sheets of finish material. The Epifanes looked okay. Add one year... Other than vertical surfaces most of the Epoxy base finish had stripped away and the natural wood was weathering nicely. The Epifanes finish was well on its way to shedding finish but, in smaller bits....
My wife wanted them done in milk paint. Looks like she will get her wish.
Long grain joints glued using epoxy are holding up. Butt joints, and 90's (laps) will fail ... pretty quickly. They are about 4 years, now.
BTW, for 20 years every exposed surface on our home was cedar. Three coats of latex over semi-solid oil stain has lived for 16 years without peeling. Decks are power washed every spring. I refinish decking about every two years but only because it is so easy to roll two coats after the bleach and power washing is done. Nothing has prevented algae, or mold invasion. Decks lose about 1/32nd, or more, surface with a power wash. They need to be replaced, regardless, after 15 years. So, regarding cedar decks, paint, or be cheap. Your choice.
