Outfeed table design help, T-track vs Dog Holes

[ez-duzit]

My glue-up table is 48" x 96" and is topped with a sheet of 1/4" tempered Masonite. It is always covered with a sheet of heavy polyethylene prior to any gluing. So I would never consider adding tracks or dog holes.

[photobug]

Not to be a killjoy, but I'm not a big fan of outfeed tables doubling as a workbench.

Depends on the type of work flow you have , but we rarely rip ever single piece of wood we need at once.

It is not my workbench but an assembly table.  My workbench will be separate.

My current workbench was about 3/4" below my table saw.  When I removed a foam pad that was beneath the support table it is now about 1.5" below. the table.  Surprisingly this was a benefit to me.  Having worked for years with a folding, wobbling contractor saw on a slanted driveway.  I don't need an outfeed table for up to 6' long boards on my unisaw.  The outfeed table serves more as an outfeed catcher.  The drop makes it so I can rip as many as 3 boards in a row before having to move them for more cuts.  I plan on doing something similar with the new table.  I can always shim up or put a platform for large cuts needing full outfeed support.  Even when full as an outfeed table I figure I will have at least 2'x3' assembly surface.

[photobug]

Here is the proposed layout of saw and outfeed/assembly table.  

Having trouble getting the Sketchup output to publish correct here.  The outputted image looks right on my computer but is severely cropped when posted here.

Never mind, in preview it was cropped but posted it looks like I drew it up and exported from Sketchup.

[KyleD]

You can have both if you want the most versatility and can stomach the price of T-track. 
One trouble with T-track is it collects sawdust and wood chips which can interfere with its use.
I personally like the holes in a grid and use them with dogs and Festool dog clamps for horizontal clamping or L clamps for vertical clamping.
As far as 20mm verses 3/4, one is not better than the other. It just depends on what size dogs and other accessories you have.
After drinking a pitcher of the green cool aid (Festool) I am stuck with the 20mm holes.

[photobug]

As far as 20mm verses 3/4, one is not better than the other. It just depends on what size dogs and other accessories you have.
After drinking a pitcher of the green cool aid (Festool) I am stuck with the 20mm holes.

I only have a few 3/4" dog accessories and will save those for my handtool bench.  I am aiming to make my layout on a nice grid to be able to use the holes for squaring and 45 angles.  I am hoping to make 20mm holes as I feel there is a bunch of more modern (green) accessories being developed for them and I could use 3/4" things in it as well.  My problem is I am having trouble figuring out how to make perfect 20mm holes, 160 of them.

I am going to make some trial runs today using a spiral bit and guide bushings to see how close to 20mm I can get.

[Alan S]

It is not my workbench but an assembly table.  My workbench will be separate.

My current workbench was about 3/4" below my table saw.  When I removed a foam pad that was beneath the support table it is now about 1.5" below. the table.  Surprisingly this was a benefit to me.  Having worked for years with a folding, wobbling contractor saw on a slanted driveway.  I don't need an outfeed table for up to 6' long boards on my unisaw.  The outfeed table serves more as an outfeed catcher.  The drop makes it so I can rip as many as 3 boards in a row before having to move them for more cuts.  I plan on doing something similar with the new table.  I can always shim up or put a platform for large cuts needing full outfeed support.  Even when full as an outfeed table I figure I will have at least 2'x3' assembly surface.

I would guess the question of workbench vs assembly/outfeed table came up because I don't see any need for holddowns -- either benchdogs or T-track -- in an assembly or outfeed table.  That makes me think you envision something I don't.  The closest I can think of would be to help square an assembly during glueup, and for that precisely positioned holes would seem better than T-track.  But there are plenty of other approaches to that.

[BobW]

Here is the proposed layout of saw and outfeed/assembly table.  

Having trouble getting the Sketchup output to publish correct here.  The outputted image looks right on my computer but is severely cropped when posted here.

Never mind,  in preview it was cropped but posted it looks like I drew it up and exported from Sketchup.

I would put casters on that sucker...just in case, OOPS, you want rip a long board on the TS, and you have a big assembly underway on the assembly/outfeed table.

[photobug]

Currently the table saw is on a mobile base.  I have used it's mobility to cut 8 foot stock.  I ended up leaving the tablesaw skewed in the shop to not have to work around the drill press.  I will likely steal the flip up casters on the current bench and put it on the new bench.

[KyleD]

 My problem is I am having trouble figuring out how to make perfect 20mm holes, 160 of them.

I am going to make some trial runs today using a spiral bit and guide bushings to see how close to 20mm I can get.

If you want perfect holes forget using a drill and drill bit. You could buy a 20mm plunge router bit or...
Use a plunge router along with a 1/2 spiral bit with guide bushing and template that has the right sized holes if you want to get perfect. 
This especially applies on the manmade materials like MDF, Ply, or Particle board.

I should have re-read your post. It sounds like router is in your mind already.

[ez-duzit]

The huge step-down shown makes it virtually useless as an outfeed table.