Disguising small gaps

[Handplanesandmore]

Before you ponder your fix, answer this question first: Who are you going to "fool" with your fix?

A) Yourself
B) Another woodworker
C) Someone who is not a woodworker?

If A, none will work. The splinter/thin strip may be worth a try but there is no guarantee. If you really want to try, soften the rail's (horizontal) edge and hammer it gently with a flat stamp to see if you can "extend" it slightly to minimize the gap. Try the same on the stile's edge. Don't over do it or you could depress the surface too much. Again, it is a try, not a sure fix. Use a scrap for practice!

If B, the "an intentional design" thing will make your blunder worse. Who would build a rail and stile door like that? It is a joke and it would make you a laughing stock (no pun intended) among your woodworking buddies. It is as worse as the sawdust/glue fix (if you are staining your piece). All those putty and sawdust/glue fixes are for beginners only, or for kitchen cabinetry kind of build.

If C, why bother with any fix? Ordinary people may still notice the gap and you can explain your error away with a lecture on wood movement if it matters.

If I were you, I would do nothing and just learn from it: chamfer edges during the dry run.

Simon

[KingwoodFan1989]

I was thinking over this last night and I think I came up with something similar to the "splinter" method...what if I clamped a piece of wood at a slight angle just a hair into the edge of the piece and used a router with a flush trim bit (with the bearing riding up against that piece of wood) and just routed away a TINY bit off the edge and glued a piece of Jatoba veneer on it? Since it's at a slight angle, it would end up just looking like a stripe in the grain and there'd be no need to square up the point where the router bit stops. I think I'll try this on some scrap. I'll have to wait until Friday to order the veneer, though, since I don't get paid until then.

[fixtureman]

You could dado it both ways and inlay a light color wood so it looks like it was supposed to be that way

[Stwood_]

If those pieces aren't already glued together, run them through the surface planer (if they're not to short) and take off a 32nd

[KingwoodFan1989]

If those pieces aren't already glued together, run them through the surface planer (if they're not to short) and take off a 32nd

They aren't. I might try this and just adjust my plans for that small amount. Thanks!

[Handplanesandmore]

If those pieces aren't already glued together, run them through the surface planer (if they're not to short) and take off a 32nd

Definitely a good idea.

Just be sure you take measures to avoid snipes!

If you use handplanes, that is another (and safer) option.

Simon

[KingwoodFan1989]

Well, I tried it, and I actually had to end up taking off about 3/32". My planer doesn't like to really grab the piece and press it against the table under about 1/16"...if you try it, you'll risk getting snipe up at the front unless you REALLY keep the piece steady until it does get caught between the roller and the table. The joints are nice and tight now, so I guess I'll just update my plans (which I've had to do already due to my veneer being a HAIR too narrow). I do have to do a little bit of final sanding with the joints dry fit as some of the rails sit proud of the legs/stiles by a few thousandths, but it's not much. I got a few thousandths of snipe on a lot of the ends of the boards, but that was easily sanded away with my ROS. As for easing the edges without disturbing the fit of the joints on those specific parts, I will probably do those edges on the final dry fit before finishing and assembly.

I just hate having to change the measurements on my plans mid-project. I took a few semesters of classes under a veteran Journeyman Cabinetmaker years ago, and he was definitely not a fan of "cut and fit" scenarios or other stuff that deviated from the initial plan. That philosophy has rubbed off on me, and it bugs me if I can't get everything to within like 1/128" or so.

I do want to learn to use handplanes, but beyond some rough shaving as well as easing edges, I can't really use them. I don't think mine are nearly sharp enough or even honed well...I have a frame I built a while back that had something happen resulting in a crack on the side, and I'd like to eventually hand plane a 64th off or so to level the surface without chipping out the splines at the corner (which run diagonal and thus are mostly exposed end grain, which would chip out on the jointer).

[Cooler]

I see many shaker style cabinets where this is a distinct V-groove at the joint.  

[Aram]

Well, I tried it, and I actually had to end up taking off about 3/32". My planer doesn't like to really grab the piece and press it against the table under about 1/16"...if you try it, you'll risk getting snipe up at the front unless you REALLY keep the piece steady until it does get caught between the roller and the table. 

Side note for situations like this: Cut two reasonably long scrap pieces. Feed the first one. Once the rollers are engaged, feed your piece, followed by the second scrap. That often solves the snipe problem.

[ez-duzit]

...We mix the sanding dust with our finish and fill any holes or gaps

...How about a very small V bead over each of the joints to make them consistent...

This and this are should be avoided.