Will this window framing idea work?

[Wild Turkey]

   

Is this more like what I need? Remember the wall has four of these windows.

Window is bigger than any in table I found in "local code"
  Local code folks and I have an antagonistic relationship -- they like to keep information to themselves until you've committed and then they quote something to me that isn't in any of the info they've posted or handed out.


I'm leaving them to my contractor so any help will be appreciated.  

[Snipe Hunter]

How tall is the room. How wide is the window? I don't understand the drawing.

[Snipe Hunter]

Is it a bedroom? You'll have to follow egress rules for how high it is off the ground in a bedroom and it has to open. I guess what I need to know is how high off the floor is the sill and how tall the room is.. That will tell me how much room you have for a header. When in doubt....two 2x10s. You are going to need more support than that drawing shows.

This is acceptable window framing construction. The header will vary a little depending on how tall the window is and how high your ceiling is.

[Wild Turkey]

   

Here's a cross section of the columns.

My drawings are just a thumbnail taken out of the entire wall.


Hope this helps.

[MstrCarpenter]

I guess you didn't realize that there a lot of important variables missing. Gable end? If so it's not typically a "supporting wall". How many floors above? snow load? Any point loads above? (I'll assume not.) I got the width of the window at 3'-6" that's not actually where I'd start, but I just looked up the span tables in the 2017 IIRC. (Tables R602.7(1), (2), and (3).) Suffice it to say that a single story with a building width up to 36'; dbl. 2 x 8's (with proper nailing) and one or two jacks each side will meet or exceed current codes. If it's a two story you may need to go to triples or dbl. 2 x 10's depending on how wide the structure is. Something else to consider before filling a whole wall with these is you'll need a shear wall, sometimes a decked floor above will suffice, but not with all Building Inspectors nor with most Engineers. The little house on The Wizard of Oz must have been built much better than the minimum code requirements! Oh, wait! That was just a dream; I still ponder Judy Garland's question to Scarecrow though. What would I do with a brain if I had one anyway?

[jamesglenn]

I guess you didn't realize that there a lot of important variables missing. Gable end? If so it's not typically a "supporting wall". How many floors above? snow load? Any point loads above? (I'll assume not.) I got the width of the window at 3'-6" that's not actually where I'd start, but I just looked up the span tables in the 2017 IIRC. (Tables R602.7(1), (2), and (3).) Suffice it to say that a single story with a building width up to 36'; dbl. 2 x 8's (with proper nailing) and one or two jacks each side will meet or exceed current codes. If it's a two story you may need to go to triples or dbl. 2 x 10's depending on how wide the structure is. Something else to consider before filling a whole wall with these is you'll need a shear wall, sometimes a decked floor above will suffice, but not with all Building Inspectors nor with most Engineers. The little house on The Wizard of Oz must have been built much better than the minimum code requirements! Oh, wait! That was just a dream; I still ponder Judy Garland's question to Scarecrow though. What would I do with a brain if I had one anyway?

What he said, except the whole Wizard of Oz thing. ha

You also need to consider how the wall will be insulated along with the header. The I-beam concept would require insulation on the exterior before sheathing. 
I do not know what code KY follows, but the new IBC has much stricter insulation and energy requirements which will dictate wall construction design. I do not get into much residential design work, but there are a lot of factors that must be considered for wall construction.

[Snipe Hunter]

Help me understand. Why are you building the wall that way as opposed to traditional studs 16" on center? It will take a lot more wood (3x) and you'll still have 16" on center unless you have some sort of heavy top plate or "header/beam" all around the top perimeter. You'll also have to provide engineering calculations to the permit office if you deviate from the norm. I'm missing something.

Your 2nd drawing provides no support for your sill plate, typically done with jack studs.

[jlanciani]

Those windows aren’t huge compared to a picture or bay window found in most every home. Don’t over complicate it; king studs then an appropriately sized header supported by double jack studs is all you need. As Snipe mentioned, cripple jacks to support the sill plate and you’re done.

[crokett™]

Help me understand. Why are you building the wall that way as opposed to traditional studs 16" on center? 

I was wondering that too.   Any deviations from the norm will likely require an engineer's stamp on the plans.  Certainly there will be a whole lot more scrutiny.

[Wild Turkey]

From the original post:

Planning the new house.  Several years ago I happened upon a surplus auction for the hospital and came home with 9 of their big insulated windows -- 3'6" x 4'6" -- for $1 each IIRC 
Now we're going to use them.  I'm concerned that the folks who have to "approve" my plans will question the strength of the wall since it's not "standard".

Sorry for any confusion, but I'm trying to get as much done before as I can before I have to submit plans to the county folks.  They like to play games with people applying to build; for example when I applied to build just a shop so I could have a place to store and work on things, like doors, trim, etc, for the house they insisted that I submit plans for the house so they would know I wasn't going to just build a shop and start.  The junior person in the office told me to my face, "We don't want good buildings built and the project abandoned because then someone like a motorcycle club could move in."

Then, after my third attempt to get things approved my contractor dropped by and they mentioned to him we needed "8 inches of concrete for termite prevention and inspection" above the ground level" -- they didn't tell me when I was showing them the plans, they just happened to mention it to him in passing.

Redraw the plans and add $2000 for block and fill material and delayed me a couple more weeks.  They saw it as a victory. 

  It's taken me 6 months to get this far so forgive me if I'm a little paranoid about dealing with them.  

Here's another drawing.  Notice only the two left windows are updated but this give you a full view of the wall.  LOML wants to be able to see out across the pasture in front of the house.  8'wall, cathedral ceiling with trusses, no second floor, minimal snow loading, standard overhang, wall section shown is 24', entire wall is 54', wall shown sits on concrete basement wall (and no, the header will not stop at the edge of the second window, it will full go full width, I just don't have time right now to redraw it.)

The reason for the 2x8 between the 2x6's is to resist racking as well as add vertical strength.  

   

I'll be back later this afternoon to see what gets posted.  Right now LOML has the flu and I'm trying to keep the house running -- gotta to grocery shopping