Lawn treatment advice

[FireWood]

My maintenance is yearly now is a bag of crabgrass preventer, three bags of lawn food, bad of winterizer, the concentrate hose weed b gone, and seed.

The "weed and feed" products should be taken off the shelves. The times to fertilize are not the times to weed here.

 Find each weeds pre-emergent times. Follow the directions exactly.

This.

Fertilizer, weed and pest control are separate exercises.  Don't be fooled into combining them.

Treat what needs treating, and then stop.  Hose end sprayers are great for weed control.  Hit them hard, let them wilt and hit them again after a couple of days before they have a chance to recover. I like granules best for insect control.

Leave your lawn longish.  Proper length depends on where you live, grass type and how much sun and water you get.  Longer is generally better for northern grasses to reduce heat stress and drought damage.   Healthy turf is more insect and weed resistant.

75% of your problems can be eliminated by raising your blades and mowing just before a rain.

topdress with peatmoss in the fall after your last mowing, and let the stuff work into the soil.
Bag and dispose of clippings until you have your weed problem under control.  Mulching spreads weeds.

Mulching is fine the rest of the year.

[Gibbcutter]

Never had a problem with products I purchased at the Borg. Most of the time I picked up Scott’s but periodically ventured into other products with good results. Spot spraying with Weed Be Gone is the way to go. Scott’s has a treated top soil that I use for top dressing in the early spring. I only seed in the fall. Periodically I hire a landscaper to core aerate. I don’t water in the summer. Sometimes the lawn will go dormid and turn brown but after that rain that usually visits in late August, the lawn turns green. It takes some work to develop a healthy lawn but once you are there, it’s easy to keep it that way.