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Yes, this top is solid Jatoba (often called Brazilian Cherry). I was thinking, if I could make a mating part for the back edge that wasn't supposed to be routed, couldn't I just sand that profile a bit (to get rid of slight bumps left by the router bit) and glue that piece in (and then just re-route the very backs of the sides)? I'd still have to do the mating piece for the other side and (maybe) a long, flat caul on each side as well so that the clamp could hold on. That way, the grain on the show side of the top is still left undisturbed as though no mistake was made, and the 3/4" matching piece will be glued into the back, which won't be anywhere near visible unless the top is removed for greater ease of moving the dresser if needed. Could that work? I would just need to get a 3/4" roundover bit to make the mating part since the profile on the undersides of the edges of the top is a 3/4" cove.
Near future projects:
-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
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Location: Missouri
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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A couple bar-type or pipe clamps should take care of the problem all by themselves.
If you use another clamp eg a Quick Grip or spring clamp to lightly clamp the workpiece to the bar/pipe, the profiled edge doesn’t matter- the workpiece can’t slip out of the jaws of the bar/pipe clamp.
Use scrap to avoid denting the workpiece.
-Mark
If I had a signature, this wouldn't be it.
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Glue and Frog Tape painter’s tape and you would have been done long ago.
Gary
Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
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How much clamping pressure do you really need for this?
Wouldn’t something like a piece of foam board be sufficient to protect the routed profile?
Ray
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Location: Texas - Gods Country
I would use tape to clamp it on.