Miter saw fence problem: solved! (in theory at least)

[jteneyck]

Doing that only gets the saw to cut square on one side. I've tried to adjust it the way it is numerous times and it just doesn't work out for some reason. It seems like it should on paper, but it doesn't end up that way.

I think I'll pick up some screws today (like Stwood said) and figure out a way to make some kind of brace to go inside the holes that will work. I don't think a regular washer will do that...it would have to be something crescent-shaped since the holes in the table are on the very edge of the holes in the fence when it's lined up correctly.

And Simon, yeah, you're totally right about the reviews. I think that's the main reason why Harbor Freight's SCMS has even as many good reviews as it does...people don't review it after several months or years of use. Those who have done so for that saw seem to all point out to a loss of consistency.

You shouldn't need any kind of special brace to go inside the holes.  Bolt load will hold the fence straight once you get it aligned.  

John

[KingwoodFan1989]

You shouldn't need any kind of special brace to go inside the holes.  Bolt load will hold the fence straight once you get it aligned.  

John

Are you sure? Even though they're offset by that much? I've gotta go get the screws in the next couple hours, so I'd like to get everything I need in one trip if I can.

[Phil Thien]

Are you sure? Even though they're offset by that much? I've gotta go get the screws in the next couple hours, so I'd like to get everything I need in one trip if I can.

Use socket-head cap screws (they have a small round head) and use washers (you may need to elongate the holes).

[jteneyck]

Are you sure? Even though they're offset by that much? I've gotta go get the screws in the next couple hours, so I'd like to get everything I need in one trip if I can.

Socket head cap screws with washers underneath worked for me.  

John

[KingwoodFan1989]

I went ahead and tried those screws with washers...I was able to reduce the problem on the right side of the saw to about 1/3" of what it originally was (in terms of how out of square it was). Still, I'm not done tinkering yet. If I can get it to within just a few thousandths of perfect that'll be where I stop. I think I'll need to use the type of screw and nut setup that Stwood shared with me in the other thread to get that kind of precision. Guess it's back to Home Depot I go tomorrow!
 Thank God screws, nuts, and washers are so dirt cheap! 


There's one issue, though...since the screws stick up higher, I can't use the fence height extensions. I don't cut a lot of dimensional lumber, so for now this will be a good enough compromise. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Maybe I should use smaller washers...see the pics below. The washers are actually getting bent under the force of the screws, so I'm wondering if going with smaller diameter washers and carriage bolts (with thinner heads) would help. I'd need a socket wrench to tighten those effectively, but maybe they'd leave me enough room to get the fence wings back on. What do you think?

[Stwood_]

Yes, figured socket heads would interfere.
Get regular allen head.

https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-shcs-bu...gJyWPD_BwE

[jteneyck]

I had the same problem with the upper fences.  I milled off the part that was interfering.  Aluminum mills easily with a carbide router bit.  But low profile socket head cap screws would solve the problem with no extra work.  

If you are bending the washers you need thicker washers or a wider flange on the machine screw.  

John

[Steve in Nova Scotia]

What if you took a straight router bit or end mill and chucked it in the drill press...then use it to bore a flat area where the counterbores are in the fence, this gives you a flat enough surface for the underside of a socket head cap screw to bear against. You would still have a bit of an angled counterbore below the flat you milled, , but the flat will be enough to provide adjustability...just a thought...it would basically restore some of the adjustability of the old fence design.

May give you enough clearance that you don't have to mill the underside of the upper fences for clearance. You could do a practice run on the original fence.

Steve

[Steve in Nova Scotia]

Also...a cheese head machine screw has a pretty low profile compared to other types, so maybe that would work for you.

[Steve in Nova Scotia]

Another one...fill the countersunk holes in the fence with epoxy, let it cure (JB Weld, or whatever)...then re-drill the holes. You can drill oversize, or slot them for adjustment. I kinda like that idea now that I think of it. Just throwin' stuff out there...