Trimming kitchen island pedestal
#21
(11-13-2019, 01:40 PM)brianwelch Wrote: Have you considered using mesh tape and spackle to minimize the seams?

No. Like I said, I'm a novice at this so the easier the better. I don't want it to look like I did it myself. ;-)
Reply
#22
Well the good thing is that for anyone to really see it they'll be far enough away not to notice any defects.
Smile
Reply
#23
I've bent 1/8" hardboard (masonite), around a 10" diameter disc, just using a little heat from a heat gun.
You could wrap this, with one seam, where the ends meet.
This large, probably would not need any heat, just a strap clamp, or ratchet strap around it to hold it, while glue sets.
Put the seam, toward the counter, and it would be invisible, unless you're crawling around under it.
my 2 cents, anyway.
Reply
#24
(11-13-2019, 07:41 AM)pfhlad0 Wrote: I am not a woodworker, a contractor, nor a building professional of any kind. I am a fairly handy homeowner looking for some help from those who are.


I recently had my kitchen redone. The pedestal on the island was dining height instead of counter height, so my contractor had to add 2×4’s to make it 5 inches taller, as you can see from the attached pictures. I now need to cover the exposed area so that I can paint it to match the rest of the pedestal. 

FYI — the height of the open area is about 5 inches. The diameter of the circle that needs covering is about 18 inches, making the circumference about 56 inches long.

Someone suggested 1/8″ plywood, but I’m not sure if it will bend (and hold) enough for my application.  Plus, I could only find a 4-foot long piece, so I’d have to piece two sections together to cover the entire 56-inch circumference, which I’d rather not do.

I’ve been waiting for months for my contractor to come back and do it, but I’m frustrated and cannot wait any longer. I’m hoping someone here can give me a suggestion on how to finish it myself. 


Thanks in advance.

Vinyl fascia board is about 3/32" thick .8" wide and 12'-6" long. Has a lip that you remove when cutting to 5". Cut 2" long, staple one end to the substrate. Pics look like there are spaces between 2x4's . Wrap around the lumber with 1/8" Masonite, I think the box stores carry it. It may be 4'-0" long so install in two pieces. Rough cut the vinyl , staple one end and wrap around substrate. Overlap the seam, cut thru both ends and remove the staple and cut piece from underneath the seam. 
I use hot hide glue to adhere the vinyl because it is reversible. You may be able to use vinyl plank glue for flooring instead if you do not have hot hide glue. Box stores carry it 1 quart sizes and larger. It is spread with a small notched plastic trowel.
Before installing the vinyl, turn the table upside down so the vinyl cannot slide down til it sets up. 
Vinyl comes in white, off white and light tan colors. May be wood grain on one side and smooth on the other.
mike
Reply
#25
If you're going to paint it, there's no need to add trim at the seam. Just caulk the seam flush and paint away.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
Reply
#26
(11-13-2019, 08:47 AM)pfhlad0 Wrote: Thanks so much. I saw that yesterday, but unfortunately it's only 48 inches long. I need 56 to wrap all the way around and I was hoping not to have a seam. I did a quick google search and couldn't find it in a longer length. Do you know anyone who carries longer than 48 inches?

If you go to a hardwood supplier that services cabinet makers they have two types of bendy ply,  one will bend across the 4' width and another type that bend across the 8' length.  You would have to buy a full sheet of it.    You could also cut a series of closely spaced kerfs across the back of a piece of plywood to bend it.   Roly
Reply
#27
(11-13-2019, 08:47 AM)pfhlad0 Wrote: Thanks so much. I saw that yesterday, but unfortunately it's only 48 inches long. I need 56 to wrap all the way around and I was hoping not to have a seam. I did a quick google search and couldn't find it in a longer length. Do you know anyone who carries longer than 48 inches?

Go on line.  You can get this stuff in 4' x 8' sheets if you want.  Home Depot lists it but it is probably a special order.  Some small brads + glue and ratcheting cargo straps can be used to locate and clamp.  Use paintable caulk for the seam and Spackle for the nail holes.  I find that seams do not Spackle well, but do take paintable caulk.

This Google search revealed many sources, plus plywood and redwood bending boards as well as the mdf bendy board.

https://www.google.com/search?client=fir...+for+sales
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#28
(11-14-2019, 08:29 AM)Cooler Wrote: Go on line.  You can get this stuff in 4' x 8' sheets if you want.  Home Depot lists it but it is probably a special order.  Some small brads + glue and ratcheting cargo straps can be used to locate and clamp.  Use paintable caulk for the seam and Spackle for the nail holes.  I find that seams do not Spackle well, but do take paintable caulk.

This Google search revealed many sources, plus plywood and redwood bending boards as well as the mdf bendy board.

https://www.google.com/search?client=fir...+for+sales

Remember to check which way it bends normally the sheets marked 4x8x4  will wrap a post.  the sheets marked 8x4x8 will wrap a barrel.   If ordering make sure it is what you want.  Roly
Reply
#29
An alternative is to make a hexagon or octagon shape just large enough to surround the gap and wide enough to hide it.  Attach to the underside of the counter and paint.

It will be just 8 identical pieces glued together to make the surround.

To make the octagon, cut the pieces to length with an angle cut of 22.5 degrees on both ends.  Lay the pieces on a flat surface with the longer side up and tape the edges tightly together where they meet.

Turn the entire thing over and paint all but two of the joints with Woodworkers III and the roll it up into an octagon and tape the remaining edges together and allow the glue to dry.

Remove the tape and you should end up a right and left half.  Attach the two halves together as you mount it under the countertop.  Then spackle and paint.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#30
Have you thought about how you would fasten it? Glue might work at the top piece of plywood, but I'm not siure I'd trust it on the bottom painted piece (unless you remove the paint). You might want to use some brads (and glue) to keep it in place.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.