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(05-31-2023, 10:42 AM)stav Wrote: So when are you going to sell these things or plans for them?
It seems like someone posted enough pics of one of these a couple of years ago to reverse engineer plans. Anyone have a link for that thread? It might even have included a build-along.
If you just want to throw money at it, the
Sorby Pro Edge
or a Shopsmith Strip Sander with Sharpening attachment seem like they come close.
I was a little surprised that it looks like the Sorby has gone up ~$200 since I got mine.
The SS strip sander has a surprisingly wide variety of belts available for sharpening. I need to make an off-side shelf for my SS power station so that the belt runs in the correct direction for sharpening. If you can find a used one, it would not be hard to adapt it for driving it with a motor and a couple of pulleys of your choice.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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(05-31-2023, 06:46 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: I have also switched over to using his method of testing using copy paper, and yes, some of my blades did not cleanly cut it until I went back and honed at .3 micron film.
Barry, have you checked to see how long this level of sharpness lasts? I am just wondering if we are chasing ephemeral levels of sharpness.
It's all wood.
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To paraphrase an old saying...."sharp enough for the Wood we run around with"
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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(06-01-2023, 08:10 AM)bandit571 Wrote: To paraphrase an old saying...."sharp enough for the Wood we run around with"
..........................
True....And the "sharpest" edge is always the "weakest" edge. Always "aim high and settle"....
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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Sharp enough for the Ash I run around with...
Tools in use, this morning..
Works for plane irons, too..
YMMV, of course.....
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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06-01-2023, 04:44 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-15-2023, 09:49 PM by Ricky.)
I've had success using Paul Sellers method of stropping. X-fine diamond stone to strop. That is on woodworking plane blades and chisels.
On kitchen knives my results were not so consistent. I did tend to round over. So my best results on kitchen knives are finishing by
using stropping motion on the high grit stones while decreasing pressure towards the end.
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Chuck, no , I have not done any testing, though in that video he seemed to do a fair amount of testing to see how long it would last - though I agree with you that sometimes we try to get a level of sharpness that will only last for a very short time.
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Is "micro bevel" still a thing? 1000 -1500 grit, 3 or four passes then one on the back is good enough to shave hair and I also get that delightfully tiring sound too. Sorry, I'm a Tim the Tool Man Taylor kind of guy at heart.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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When stropping by hand rounding over is usually the result of lifting the angle on the blade or cutter at the end of the stroke. It is critical to pay attention to keeping the complete stroke with a consistent angle and lifting straight up at the end without changing the angle.
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(06-09-2023, 06:13 AM)pinsntails Wrote: When stropping by hand rounding over is usually the result of lifting the angle on the blade or cutter at the end of the stroke. It is critical to pay attention to keeping the complete stroke with a consistent angle and lifting straight up at the end without changing the angle.
Exactly. Stropping is much different than honing -- I'm talking about freehand honing here. You really have to pay attention to ergonomics.
That said, I really think stropping on leather does cause dubbing even when the technique is perfect. IMO it's best to strop on a piece of MDF or flat board.
I also think if you use a honing jig, do the stropping with the jig.
