In making cutting boards what would you use

[Stwood_]

Never made one that I can recall. If I would happen to, I'd use epoxy.
Always had something else pressing that needed making. And when yer in business making wood, there's not much desire for me making knic knacks in your spare time.

[JosephP]

I've used that oil/wax finish on cutting boards as well. The only thing I do differently is I heat the oven to lowest setting then turn the off and put the treated board in there...that really pulls the oil/wax into it.

[Arlin Eastman]

From the wayback machine and Howard Acheson:

"An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag."


I've used the above for years. Make a batch and save it in a sealed container...lasts a long time.

Thanks Joe.
Isn't there a product called Howards butcher block oil?

[joe1086]

Not the same Howard. 

Howard's Butcher Block Oil says it's mineral oil, 12 oz. for $15 or so including shipping.

Mineral oil at the grocery store is probably $5 or less for 16 oz. Just get food grade mineral oil. 

Howard Acheson was a finishing guru here for a long time. His recipe adds melted wax to mineral oil for better results.

[jteneyck]

Not the same Howard. 

Howard's Butcher Block Oil says it's mineral oil, 12 oz. for $15 or so including shipping.

Mineral oil at the grocery store is probably $5 or less for 16 oz. Just get food grade mineral oil. 

Howard Acheson was a finishing guru here for a long time. His recipe adds melted wax to mineral oil for better results.

While Howie's recipe works fine, it's still just mineral oil and wax, and that will need refreshing on a pretty regular basis if the board gets used and cleaned much.  I recently switched to pure Tung Oil, which actually cures and is food safe.  I can't remember if it was the Wood Whisperer or someone else who had a YouTube video showing the testing he did on various finishes.  Tung Oil was head and shoulders above the other food safe finishes he tested.  

John

[JosephP]

Pretty sure any generally available finish is "food safe".

I like the mineral oil recipe because it leaves the wood very "natural" looking.

I've been refinishing out walnut handle kitchen knives with it about once per year for 20 years and they still look new. Yes, it is less durable than other finishes and needs reapplied...but it is as easy to reapply as it was the first time... forever. Always trade-offs and we are each going to come to our own balance...I'm not convinced that one finish is the "best". Just pick where you want the balance points be.

[Randy C]

Hey Brent

How did you make the I lay on your boards? I think thats a nice touch!

Thanks

[Bill Wilson]

I've used Howard's Butcher Block oil.  I picked it up at Lowes.  I think it was less than $10 for a 12oz bottle.  It may be more expensive than making your own mix, but I don't keep any beeswax around, so it's more convenient for me to buy it already made.  It's liquid, but benefits from resting in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes before applying.  A little goes a long way, so the $10 investment was well worth it for the small number of projects I've used it on.

[BrentDH]

Randy, it is done with a onefinity cnc.  The technique is discussed in this previous thread.  It really does make the gift more special when you can personalize it.
Cheating at Inlay Work (woodnet.net)

[FS7]

Food-grade mineral oil is about $30 a gallon on Amazon. I add some cold-pressed orange oil (more of a solvent, not really an oil) as it not only smells good but provides some antiseptic properties as well. I have used wax too, but I don't really think it's all that necessary. I am not sure what benefit it provides.

I tend to believe that anything that sees a knife should have a non-curing finish. A cutting board, or even a charcuterie board, will see significant damage from cutting. I refinish my boards often (I do it free for anybody local that buys) and it's nothing more than sanding and re-oiling. Given the initial soak in mineral oil, a coat or two of oil wiped on is sufficient. It is ready to go again within 30 minutes.