Grizzly G0441 cyclone remote

[fredhargis]

I've seen warning on garage door openers not to use LED lamps in them because it may interfere with the operation of the remote. The recommendation I saw was to use incandescent bulbs. I suppose you could (shudder, grimace) replace your LED lamps with fluorescent units but i've not seen any recommendations on how to solve the RF interference issue. Maybe an EE or sparky has a solution, but I'll bet it won't be an easy one.

[Woodshop]

I've seen warning on garage door openers not to use LED lamps in them because it may interfere with the operation of the remote. The recommendation I saw was to use incandescent bulbs. I suppose you could (shudder, grimace) replace your LED lamps with fluorescent units but i've not seen any recommendations on how to solve the RF interference issue. Maybe an EE or sparky has a solution, but I'll bet it won't be an easy one.

I would say it's an infrared signal as the remote has a tiny bulb in the front

[fredhargis]

I wouldn't think LED lamps would interfere with an infrared signal, but whatever it is I hope you get something figured otu.

[kurt18947]

If it's irritating enough, you could use use Fred's solution, cheap lamp remote and stout enough relay. If you're curious enough you could start disconnecting your new LED lamps if it's not too big a pain. I'd start with the ones nearest the cyclone and work out from there. Eventually you should find the problem lamp(s).

[Woodshop]

YES Fred
There was an old thread where people use the lamp remote and I would like to go that route, but I don't know how. I know you were helping set it up. I would need some schematics or drawings and that is what is missing from the old posted thread.
I have a 110 remote that I use to use for a fountain. I plugged it in to a lamp next to the cyclone turned all the lights on an it works the lamp flawlessly, even from out side the shop.
If any one has information that would be great . I would like to keep the mag switch in the loop.  I think I need a Packard C240B Packard Contactor 2 Pole 40 Amps 120 Coil Voltage and it is still available from amazon.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Don

[fredhargis]

Let me look and see what I have, I think I may have that contactor in a drawer somewhere and i can photograph it with some annotations.

Edit: I do have one of those contactors that I can illustrate for you, let me put together some pics today and I'll post back.

[Woodshop]

Let me look and see what I have, I think I may have that contactor in a drawer somewhere and i can photograph it with some annotations.

Edit: I do have one of those contactors that I can illustrate for you, let me put together some pics today and I'll post back.

Great Thank you Fred

[fredhargis]

Here's what I got, others can add their take on this as they see it.







First, you asked about using the exsitng  mag switch and thermal overload. I do not know of a way to do that. The way the mag works with a energized circuit. You press the start button, which closes the magnetic relay and starts the motor. Connecting this remote to it means that when you energize the remote, you wold then have to press that mag switch start button to start. Turning this remote off would disengage the relay, so the off function will work....but you have the inconvenience of 2 steps to turn it on. Others may a way to work around this.







OK, First a couple of pics of the switches i made. The first is on my Clearview with a 5HP motor. Ignore the little window on the gray box, that's just real time voltages and amp draw I did to be cute. You'll notice a powercord from the remote to the box, that turns on the coil (the second wire coming from the remote is for a dust bin sensor, ignore that as well). You also see the power wire for the 240V running into the gray box (the black heavy wire, and the power cord going to the DC motor (yellow wire). So whatever you do it will come out looking something like this. The second pic is a 120V version (wiring is still the same) I made for my HVLP, which draws 18 amps on 120V.This shows the same wiring with a smaller box.

   

   


To build this, you need the gray box to safely contain the contactor, ad nprobably some cable clamps to hols the wires to the box. These come in several sizes and are in the ourdoor conduit section, just pick the one you want.

You'll also need:

A lamp cord with plug, you can cut on off something or make your own

The power cord into the box with a plug to fit into your outlet. I'm guessing that's a NEMA 6-20 you use for a 20 amp circuit..#12 SO wire should be good and the NEMA 6-20 plug

The power cord from the box to your DC motor. If yo remove the existing switch/remote you can hard wire this to your motor. I recommend you put a plug between the motor and remote like you see on my DC. That allows any motor service that might be needed a little easier, but it does cost another plug receptacle.

You will probably want some female stabs (2) to put on the lamp cord.

Of course, the remote which you already have.



You can assemble this into your box whatever way you want, it's the wiring I'll talk about next: The contactor in the picture is a Packard C230B which is a 30 amp unit but should be identical to the one your considering. The pci shows the 40V connections and the 120V connections (for the 120 thee is a pair of stabs on each side. It's as simple as this, the incoming 240V power goes to a pair of contacts on one end, use any of them you want with one of each hots connected to one side. The opposite end connects to the motor doing it the same way. You can get some female stabs and connect to one of the brass male stabs if you want, but it's probably easier to just use the screw connectors at the top.. Then the lamp cord that goes to the remote will have one leg fasten (use the female stabs for this, see the pic of mine with open box above) to one side, the other leg fasten to the other side. If you do this, plug the lamp into remote and switch it on...you'll hear an audible click when the coil closes. That, in turn connects both sides of the 240 legs and powers on the DC. If this doesn't make sense, I can try to draw a diagram to so the connections. Now, you can't hook the 120 up backwards...it doesn't matter which side you use for the hot or neutral. Ditto the 240V, you have 2 hots feeding on one side, and 2 hots exiting on the other. As for the ground, if your lamp,cord has a ground wire, fasten it to the base of the contactor...if you want. There's really no need to ground the contractor. But the 240V ground (which you want to use) simply loops aorund the contaftor inside the box from the input side to the output side...doesn't connect to anything in the box.



So think this over and see if it made sense, if not check and I'll try to do better including a drawing of the wiring if needed. oh, the pics...forgot those:

  contactorsidej.pdf (Size: 1.4 MB / Downloads: 24)

I'm sorry about that last pic, I hope you can see it....editing it for this forum has taken me over an hour and I still may not have it correct. If you can't see it I'll try again.

[Woodshop]

Ok  Thanks
I will study this till it soaks in a bit and yes the pdf is great. I will also get the things I need together, If the Packard C230B works I will get that, it's a little less cost.  



Don

[fredhargis]

In the spirit of a picture is worth a 1000 words, I took my spare one and wired it, here's how it looks: