04-07-2025, 11:20 PM
Thanks for all the replies, and I'm sorry for not getting back to this thread to respond earlier.
Building off your responses, my guess is that I have a double 2x header in there and no cripple studs. There must be at least a small gap between the header and the drywall. And perhaps a 2x4 on top of the header for the drywall to attach to (middle green line in my original drawings). The wall appears to be a 4" thick wall though, perhaps with the addition of a 5/8" piece of plywood for some reason on the inner side. The joists in the ceiling are parallel to the garage door wall.
I've done some basic welding, but unfortunately don't have a welder at the moment. So anything I build will either have to be pre-made or something I can bolt together in some way.
MstrCarpenter - Do you think there's a concern about bowing the header out due to the torque in this situation if I have two shelf levels per side of the garage (so, able to have a total of four shelves that can hold 10' lumber), each capable of 160 lb (720 lb total)? When I did this at my last house, it was two single car openings, so the center post helped anchor things more.
Certainly worth keeping in mind. The opener was replaced a handful of years ago by the previous owner, but I don't know if the spring was also replaced. However, at least with the racks I'm considering, I don't think it's be too head to just take the lumber down (and even remove the racks) if needed. It'd be annoying, but it'd only need to be done once.
I'm certainly intrigued by this approach. I'm not sure I'm visualizing exactly how you'd do this though in terms of combining pieces of unistrut. Would it allow side loading/unloading of lumber, or more like end loading/unloading like JosephP described? I'm also about to install a bunch of lights in the ceiling, so I'd need to make sure that a ceiling mounted lumber rack wouldn't create big shadows. That's manageable with some planning though.
Ohhh, that seems like a nice way to see in there without ripping off a big section of drywall. Plus, who doesn't like a new toy? I can think of plenty of other uses too. I didn't realize they were so cheap these days.
Thanks all!
Tyler
MstrCarpenter Wrote:It looks like you have a built-up header at the top of the opening and cripple studs above that to a single or double plate. Your ceiling joists would be on top of that (those) with the drywall attached to the bottom, or strapping then drywall on the bottom.
tomsteve Wrote:it appears to be a 6" wall and possibly a double 2 by header packed out top and bottom of header to make it fit the wall no crips between header and top plate.
mount lumber racks to pieces of 2 by that span top of wall to bottom of header then mount those on wall
Building off your responses, my guess is that I have a double 2x header in there and no cripple studs. There must be at least a small gap between the header and the drywall. And perhaps a 2x4 on top of the header for the drywall to attach to (middle green line in my original drawings). The wall appears to be a 4" thick wall though, perhaps with the addition of a 5/8" piece of plywood for some reason on the inner side. The joists in the ceiling are parallel to the garage door wall.
I've done some basic welding, but unfortunately don't have a welder at the moment. So anything I build will either have to be pre-made or something I can bolt together in some way.
MstrCarpenter - Do you think there's a concern about bowing the header out due to the torque in this situation if I have two shelf levels per side of the garage (so, able to have a total of four shelves that can hold 10' lumber), each capable of 160 lb (720 lb total)? When I did this at my last house, it was two single car openings, so the center post helped anchor things more.
EatenByLimestone Wrote:Might want to swap your springs before you build your rack.
Certainly worth keeping in mind. The opener was replaced a handful of years ago by the previous owner, but I don't know if the spring was also replaced. However, at least with the racks I'm considering, I don't think it's be too head to just take the lumber down (and even remove the racks) if needed. It'd be annoying, but it'd only need to be done once.
MstrCarpenter Wrote:Another way that's slightly adjustable is to mount unistrut to the ceiling to hang more unistrut with 3/8" all thread. If it's mounted to the ceiling securely enough, you could hang your car from them.
I'm certainly intrigued by this approach. I'm not sure I'm visualizing exactly how you'd do this though in terms of combining pieces of unistrut. Would it allow side loading/unloading of lumber, or more like end loading/unloading like JosephP described? I'm also about to install a bunch of lights in the ceiling, so I'd need to make sure that a ceiling mounted lumber rack wouldn't create big shadows. That's manageable with some planning though.
JosephP Wrote:Can you see back to the right deeper into the cavity there? If there is just a 2x in the way, can you drill a small hole for an inspection camera?
Ohhh, that seems like a nice way to see in there without ripping off a big section of drywall. Plus, who doesn't like a new toy? I can think of plenty of other uses too. I didn't realize they were so cheap these days.
Thanks all!
Tyler