Table Saws: What does flat mean?

[jteneyck]

The way I look at it is there's plenty enough slop and error in my work from my own limitations.  I don't need any "help" from my machines adding to it.  If the OP's machine's flatness exceeds whatever specs. the manufacturer has for it I would take it back, without question.  I paid money for the machine to be manufactured to a stated set of specs.; if it doesn't meet those specs. the manufacturer has not met their end of the bargain and has to make it right or refund my money.  If it's in spec., but those specs. are much greater than competitors' saws, AND it causes me problems, I'd ask for a refund.  

I could not readily find the flatness specs. from several manufacturers, but SawStop lists theirs as 0.010" max.  

John

[Downwindtracker2]

I'm going to mess up enough times, no sense having the machine do it for me.

[Scoony]

I have a Crafsman Zip Code saw, there is a hump to the left of the blade, between the throat plate and left edge. Wing is flat. It is noticeable with a piece of flat wood, but I failed to notice until I got a certified straight edge. I just have to be careful on making some cuts, and have grown accustomed to it.

[jteneyck]

I have a Crafsman Zip Code saw, there is a hump to the left of the blade, between the throat plate and left edge. Wing is flat. It is noticeable with a piece of flat wood, but I failed to notice until I got a certified straight edge. I just have to be careful on making some cuts, and have grown accustomed to it.

I would grind down the hump with an angle grinder and sander.  Just outline the area that's humped, grind some, check with your straight edge, repeat until it's almost flat, then finish with your ROS.  Or if you have a RAS you could take the top off and use it with a grinding wheel to flatten the hump.  A friend with a surface grinder would be even better.  

Better to have a dished top than one with a hump.  

John

[Steve N]

if it doesn't meet those specs. the manufacturer has not met their end of the bargain and has to make it right or refund my money. 
John

This is why I questioned how much $$$$$ the saw cost. I will nod to your argument that it is an expectation if the saw cost 3K. If it's a table top saw purchased for peanuts, do you really find it should be kept to that standard? I certainly do not. I don't even see it applicable for a $1700.00 saw. This may be why you will have a hard time finding posted specs when the manufacturer (in name only) is forced to represent the product the actual manufacturer makes it to. Or in this case, doesn't make it to. We are no longer in a world where an American company made a product to a certain spec, and then stood behind it. That ship sailed years ago.

[jteneyck]

This is why I questioned how much $$$$$ the saw cost. I will nod to your argument that it is an expectation if the saw cost 3K. If it's a table top saw purchased for peanuts, do you really find it should be kept to that standard? I certainly do not. I don't even see it applicable for a $1700.00 saw. This may be why you will have a hard time finding posted specs when the manufacturer (in name only) is forced to represent the product the actual manufacturer makes it to. Or in this case, doesn't make it to. We are no longer in a world where an American company made a product to a certain spec, and then stood behind it. That ship sailed years ago.

Regardless of country of manufacture or how much it sells for, all machines are made to specs. that the manufacturer (or buyer, in the case of Grizzly and others, probably including Ridgid) set.  If the product doesn't meet those specs. it's defective and shouldn't have been sold.  But lots of specs. are only checked once every 100, 1000, or even 10,000 or more parts, machines, etc, so stuff gets sold that doesn't meet all the specs., leaving it to the buyer to find the problem (if it really is one) and return the item for repair, replacement, or refund.  High end machines might have tighter specs. than low end ones, but they all have specs., whether stated or not. 

In the OP's case, the table flatness spec. may not be stated anywhere, and customer service might not be willing to tell the OP what it is or state that it's really large.  That's where the problem gets difficult.  But I've never purchased a tool or machine I couldn't return if it was in as received condition and I had never used it. 

John

[Admiral]

I purposely didn't reveal specifics fearing that it might color your opinion about what flat should mean with regard to table saws. Mine is a brand new R4512 Ridgid. Haven't even plugged it in yet. I hope you can see my drawing. This forum used to let you upload pics directly. The red area is low and maxes out at .023". I'll give 'em a call. I suspect they'll say it's within limits.

image

I'd return it and buy a Makita or Bosch job site TS.  I've never been impressed by a HD Ridgid power tool.

[woodhead]

Lil...like others said, you might not even notice it when cutting.  Also, $750 saw...you got what you paid for.



Al

[Splinter Puller]

If the tablesaw is dished so much that a thick piece of hardwood can't be pressed down hard enough to maintain full contact during the cut then dado's and other partial depth cuts will be dished in the wood.   A slight bit of dishing is ok as long as the material being cut can be deformed during the cut to conform to the surface.

[jteneyck]

Lil...like others said, you might not even notice it when cutting.  Also, $750 saw...you got what you paid for.



Al

If 0.023" exceeds Ridgid's specs. for flatness then the OP did not get what he paid for.   

John