Extrusion, or what to build router table from?
#29
(09-09-2017, 12:22 AM)ez-duzit Wrote: 80/20 is needlessly complicating it. What more do you want than to be able to use your table saw's fence with the router?

I already have a router table that I built into my PM66 extension. I even made a split fence, a dust cabinet and DC for both. It works extremely well. But sometimes it's inconvenient for my TS to pull double duty. Occasionally I have to mess up my TS setup (fence location or stops or whatever) to make room for whatever I'm routing. Now that I have real shop space, it would be nice to have a dedicated router table.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
Reply
#30
Do as Chris, and I have done, incorporate it into one side of your table saw, then you can use your fence and make additional attachments to go with it.  

David Marks of Woodworks fame did the same thing.


[Image: 2638%20800-L.jpg]

Mike
Reply
#31
(09-17-2017, 10:26 AM)Mike in kc Wrote: Do as Chris, and I have done, incorporate it into one side of your table saw, then you can use your fence and make additional attachments to go with it.  

David Marks of Woodworks fame did the same thing.



Mike

Hi Mike,

Thanks. I already put one in my table saw. For reasons mentioned above, there are times I would like to have a separate router table.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
Reply
#32
I re-purposed old lower kitchen cabinets. I have (2) dual router tables. Very handy to use old cabs.
If you have a Habitat close by, go check em out.

As for 80/20 extrusions, there was a ebay seller that sold off cuts who was very reasonable. Look up seller 80/20
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








Reply
#33
I built a modified version of Norm's table and it's as solid as you'll ever need. It's plenty heavy on it's own, but once you fill it up with bits, accessories, and more routers (
Winkgrin ) it'll stay exactly where you want it. And for those times when you need to move it, a set of casters can easily be added...

Just my two cents.
Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
Reply
#34
In 30 years of professional woodworking, most as a jig and fixture maker, I have build over 100 router tables of all descriptions. Never used extrusion except for the fence. 

The cool thing about router tables these days is that you can build it 100% from scratch with your own hands, buy it 100% pre-made and ready to use, or pretty much anything in between. 

Kreg's metal stands are very strong and stable, I have been impressed with them. Much, much heavier gauge steel than the 'stands' that come with some inexpensive power tools.

I have made cabinets for the table and have plans for a full sized folding router table that uses 2x6 for the entire body. 

The only drawback to the metal frames is storage. Building a cabinet offers the chance for drawers and doors to store your routers and accessories. I have the Kreg table, and did build a box to fit underneath with a big drawer for all the stuff they sent me with the table.
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
Reply
#35
(09-24-2017, 08:44 AM)handi Wrote: The only drawback to the metal frames is storage. Building a cabinet offers the chance for drawers and doors to store your routers and accessories. I have the Kreg table, and did build a box to fit underneath with a big drawer for all the stuff they sent me with the table.

Storage options for Kreg stands and tables....

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/45/d0/8b/45d08...-tools.jpg

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d3/97/12/...08f4bb.jpg

https://www.richelieu.com/documents/docs...91_700.jpg

The Rockler stands are a little heavier than the Kreg stands (11 gauge vs. 12/16 gauge) and can also have drawers/doors added.

http://assets.rockler.com/media/catalog/...1-1000.jpg

http://www.rockler.com/drawer-mounting-k...nting-kits
Reply
#36
(09-25-2017, 02:16 PM)Lynden Wrote: Storage options for Kreg stands and tables....

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/45/d0/8b/45d08...-tools.jpg

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d3/97/12/...08f4bb.jpg

https://www.richelieu.com/documents/docs...91_700.jpg

The Rockler stands are a little heavier than the Kreg stands (11 gauge vs. 12/16 gauge) and can also have drawers/doors added.

http://assets.rockler.com/media/catalog/...1-1000.jpg

http://www.rockler.com/drawer-mounting-k...nting-kits
I basically built only the bottom drawer of your first pick. Stores all my table accessories while leaving the underside mostly open which I prefer for access (the Triton Router needs to be switched on and off to raise above the table for bit changes and the locking lever is down there) and for cleaning. I just blow off the top of the box.
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 7 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.