Dull bandsaw blade

[Timberwolf]

Jack

I have done a few and the first one made me repent on using a Dremel tool.  I now use a diamond card fine grit to do it.  It looks like a credit card and about 1/8" thick or less and use glasses and light.  I only hit the flat part of the carbide tip and the upper part of the carbide only. 
It will take longer but it will sharpen it and not dull it like what I did.

I almost thought I would have to buy another blade it was so bad but then like I said I taken my diamond card to do it again and then it worked great.

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Arlin, if you stroke the burr down the top of each tooth, you stand a chance of 'rounding" the sharp tip of the tooth, and that is why I recommended staying mostly "inside the gullet" with a burr of the correct diameter, especially until you get used to it....This way will not alter the cutting angle whereas sliding the burr down the top of the tooth "could", unless one is very careful., and it takes some "finesse" to do it correctly. The same thing could be achieved with a round diamond file of the correct diameter.

A "diamond" card used on the tip would work fine but take longer than a burr..I have done it the way Derek shows with a flat diamond coated wheel, but that also takes some finesse and a light touch...It is a faster method once the technique mastered, but I still feel the "burr in the gullet" is the safest and most foolproof way...I would never let the "fear" of ruining a blade stop me from doing it myself, and that applies to sharpening anything. It's how you learn...

[Derek Cohen]

Jack, I must disagree with your cautionary advice. Stroking the back of the tooth is a well established method. I have sharpened many blades without any mishap. I actually believe that there is more danger in sharpening the face as you can alter the rake.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Timberwolf]

Jack, I must disagree with your cautionary advice. Stroking the back of the tooth is a well established method. I have sharpened many blades without any mishap. I actually believe that there is more danger in sharpening the face as you can alter the rake.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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Yes, it would be possible, but stroking the back can alter the clearance angle pretty quickly if it is done freehand using a cylinder burr or a flat-faced wheel, Derek. A flat wheel would be better if it were jigged up and the angle maintained.

[funnyboi]

If the blade wanders and will not cut on your line, it is dull. If you feel you have to push hard against the blade to get it to cut, it is dull. This can lead to you getting injured. If you are pushing your work and the blade comes out of a cut your hand will move forward near or into the blade.

If you can pick up a new blade locally, buy the new blade, put it on and this will be your standard as to whether the others are sharp.
Sometimes a blade will loose it's sharpness on one side. the teeth should feel the same on both sides of the blade.

Hope this with all the other great advise helps.

I would rather throw away a dull blade than throw away part of my finger.

[jteneyck]

Peter, now that this has resurfaced I'm curious as to what you did?  Did you try sharpening the blade yourself, send it out, keep on using it, or …?

John