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(01-28-2019, 05:14 PM)MichaelS Wrote: Looks like you're practically dialed in.
If you've a mind for it, a scratch stock will get you 95% of the way there and 40' wouldn't take you more than an hour or two. The sanding would take some care, but if it's the owner who does that, then no skin off your nose
You can still use the TS and router bits to knock off most of the material and save you more time too.
Probably 20-30 minutes to file the card scraper (or other scratch stock material) and you're off to the races.
Michael
I plan on making a card scraper to match the profile...or at least I hope my sheet metal guy I know can burn one out on his machine then I can fine tune it.
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(01-28-2019, 05:16 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: I think it looks good. a trick that might help the sanding go easy is to make a sanding block of the original profile with Bondo. I wouldn't worry too much about the thickest face, just the curve that meets it, and I would also make it so it can ride against the thin edge. (To help w/ a visual; picture a sanding block above the sample in your photo. Slide it to the right 3/4" and drop that side about 1/2".) I would go through the grits but don't have paper on that right edge 'til the last few.
To make the sanding block, first put wax or oil on your sample so it won't stick. Put a gob of Bondo (with hardener) on the sample and force it onto the profile with a properly sized block of wood. When it hardens it should stick to the block. Trim the overhanging Bondo as necessary. Sometime I have to "soften" the paper by rubbing the back over a sharp corner, but your profile doesn't look too difficult to sand.
Thanks for the tip...I may give that a try.
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(01-28-2019, 05:16 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: I think it looks good. a trick that might help the sanding go easy is to make a sanding block of the original profile with Bondo. I wouldn't worry too much about the thickest face, just the curve that meets it, and I would also make it so it can ride against the thin edge. (To help w/ a visual; picture a sanding block above the sample in your photo. Slide it to the right 3/4" and drop that side about 1/2".) I would go through the grits but don't have paper on that right edge 'til the last few.
To make the sanding block, first put wax or oil on your sample so it won't stick. Put a gob of Bondo (with hardener) on the sample and force it onto the profile with a properly sized block of wood. When it hardens it should stick to the block. Trim the overhanging Bondo as necessary. Sometime I have to "soften" the paper by rubbing the back over a sharp corner, but your profile doesn't look too difficult to sand.
Slick idea...will have to try that some day
Thanks
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(01-28-2019, 05:18 PM)Duane N Wrote: Thanks...not perfect but as long as the ends are close no one will notice the middle not being exact. Paint hides a lot as well I hope,
I had to go back and re-read your original post-- i was like, "wait a second, he's making this out of cherry and he's painting it?!!"
I then realized the cherry wood was the payment for this-- the molding would be painted pine.
Colin
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(01-29-2019, 11:51 AM)Cdshakes Wrote: I had to go back and re-read your original post-- i was like, "wait a second, he's making this out of cherry and he's painting it?!!"
I then realized the cherry wood was the payment for this-- the molding would be painted pine.
Colin
I'm a rookie but I know nice wood and not so nice wood that should be painted,
