left tilt === right tilt

[fredhargis]

would a Delta Unisaw Grand Edition ..  3 HP, 10 inch, right tilt cabinet saw with 52 inch extension. Has wheel kit, over arm blade guard with vacuum fitting, extra blades, Dado kit, and many other accessories. be worth $1200

The "Grand Edition" doesn't add anything to the value, at one time Delta thought introducing a new model meant you painted the current one a different color. The Grand Editions were painted a very nice Ivory color that I thought was quite nice looking. My Unisaw was a "Platinum" model...and I even got a "Specially made for" name plate. That aside...these are awesome saws, and I prefer the Unifence to the Bies type I now have. I'd say with the accessories his price is about right and this would be a great saw to have. These were mid-90's or so saws, and i still remember the ads with Norm standing next to the tools (they included the 14" bandsaw and something else in the paint scheme) doing the endorsements. I wouldn't wait too long...that saw may be gone before you get there.

[rwe2156]

My RT Unisaw has a miter slot on both sides of the blade; no different than my LT Craftsman.  

Curious, I prefer a left side blade circular saw precisely because I can better see the cut line.  Just seems more natural to me being right handed.  I always thought the right side blade circular saw must have been invented by a left handed person as revenge on right handed people.  

John

I'm with you on the circ saw. 

There are definite safety issues with RT. Example: you're bevelling the edges of a board, say 24" square.  I suppose you could use a panel sled, but you would be forced to use the fence to the right and its trapped between blade and fence.  but And we haven't even considered something like a slight bow. I don't know any other way to do it.

[Arlin Eastman]

Imagine cutting a miter between the rip fence and the blade.  Now think about which side of the blade you would prefer to stand: there's your answer.  Personally I like a left tilt and that's what my saw has.

That is why I got mine left tilt like because the right side was the longest to hold the wood.  Later I was thinking it really did not matter and it was how the user thought it would be easiest for them.

[jteneyck]

I'm with you on the circ saw. 

There are definite safety issues with RT.  Example: you're bevelling the edges of a board, say 24" square.  I suppose you could use a panel sled, but you would be forced to use the fence to the right and its trapped between blade and fence.   but  And we haven't even considered something like a slight bow.  I don't know any other way to do it.

The blade on my RT Uni is in the center of the top, for all practical purposes.  If you cut bevels with the auxiliary fence I showed above there is about as much support on the left side as there would be on the right with a standard LT saw.  A 24" wide piece would be no problem.  It's only when you have an auxiliary table on the right side of the saw that the LT has an advantage in providing support for wider pieces.  But you can do the same thing on a LT saw by using a roller stand or making a temporary bridge.  

Same thing when cutting wood with a slight bow.  Use the auxiliary fence (and a hold down from above).  

You might have to do a few things differently but I haven't found anything I can't do on the RT that I could on a LT.  I wouldn't pass up a good deal on a Unisaw because it is a RT.  

John

[cvillewood]

These threads are so funny. Miter cuts are really what you guys think are a huge issue and a deal breaker? “Left Tilt” was a marketing ploy 30 years ago to sell more saws that were “safer”. “Trapped cuts” are perfectly safe if you’re applying proper pressure against the fence so the wood doesn’t angle into the blade. If the wood has a bow or twist, you need to be cautious no matter what type of cut - but really the stock is probabaly no good anyway and you should toss it.

And how often are you cutting miters on the TS anyway? I suppose it all depends on what type of work you do, but I don’t recall the last time i did one.

[daddo]

Give me either one- I'll adapt.

[K. L. McReynolds]

These threads are so funny. Miter cuts are really what you guys think are a huge issue and a deal breaker?  “Left Tilt” was a marketing ploy 30 years ago to sell more saws that were “safer”. “Trapped cuts” are perfectly safe if you’re applying proper pressure against the fence so the wood doesn’t angle into the blade. If the wood has a bow or twist, you need to be cautious no matter what type of cut - but really the stock is probabaly no good anyway and you should toss it.

And how often are you cutting miters on the TS anyway?  I suppose it all depends on what type of work you do, but I don’t recall the last time i did one.

For rough carpentry/deck building/etc., I use a power miter saw or a portable TS. In my shop, for box/frame/etc. work, I use the TS. Why? Because I can dial in exact settings for miters on mt TS, when all I get is approximate settings on the Miter saw. So, it does depend on the type of work.


If you feel safe doing a trapped cut, by all means have at. I chose not to take the chance---bound up/improperly dried piece of wood. One mistake can be really dangerous. I've done some crazy things with a table saw, but the only damage was/would be to the wood, not me.

[Arlin Eastman]

These threads are so funny. Miter cuts are really what you guys think are a huge issue and a deal breaker?  “Left Tilt” was a marketing ploy 30 years ago to sell more saws that were “safer”. “Trapped cuts” are perfectly safe if you’re applying proper pressure against the fence so the wood doesn’t angle into the blade. If the wood has a bow or twist, you need to be cautious no matter what type of cut - but really the stock is probably no good anyway and you should toss it.

And how often are you cutting miters on the TS anyway?  I suppose it all depends on what type of work you do, but I don’t recall the last time i did one.

Like what I put in bold I can always avoid a trapped cut either by putting the wood on the other side or adding a small piece of wood along side the fence to let the wood drop off without touching the fence.

I really do not see an issue with using a left/right tilt but only the persons preference.  Everything else is just how hard a person has to make it an issue.  JMHO

I do have a sled to cut small parts with and a clamp to hold it in place so our fingers never have to touch the wood.

[Slav Jelesijevich]

I've done a lot of custom work when I had the business running. This is my 10 cents on the subject. If you are going to do lots of angles and box work from furniture to cabinets I would recommend to have both saw if you have the room. Here is my thoughts. This is what I have, unisaw with an Excalibur sliding that I bought 25 years ago, man I am getting old. Also have a left tilt Powermatic 66. The thing that always caused problems for me with the uni is doing bevels and getting chip out on miter cuts always fussing with it. My 66 would do all my bevel cuts on solid and ply, with the cut on top I would never get chip out like on the uni. This is where my uni with right tilt becomes left tilt. When I am using the sliding table to cut a miter on the end of a board it becomes a left tilt cut, no chip out or burns in the cut. With this set up I've been able to do the dance of cutting meters without to much pain. With having a second saw you don't have to break a set up, nothing worse when you have the saw set up and you have to break it to make a cut.

[Arlin Eastman]

Slav

So good to see you here again buddy.  I think it was here or in handtools they were suggesting someone buy from you.  I think it was either files or measuring tools.

Hope all is well my friend.