Table Saws: What does flat mean?
#41
(03-13-2017, 08:43 AM)cvillewood Wrote: I don't agree with the test cut and see idea. What if the low spot is in an area where an issue only arises when a certain type of cut is made?  What if while pushing the board through it lifts the board and causes a kickback?  I know that's likely not to happen, but that'd be part of the case for a new one.

I don't agree with those extreme possibilities as a reason to not try the saw.  I'm just trying avoid the scenario of people buying a sub-$750 table saw, setting it up, measuring for flatness, then returning the saw without ever cutting anything because they could see light under part of a straight edge, and because they read somewhere that it should be flat within 0.001".  That just costs everybody involved time and money.  Common sense should prevail.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....








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#42
(03-14-2017, 09:39 AM)jteneyck Wrote: If 0.023" exceeds Ridgid's specs. for flatness then the OP did not get what he paid for.   

John



What is the spec????  




Al

Edit to add:  I looked up the part, it lists for $550 and the motor lists at the same price (for reference)
I turn, therefore I am!
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#43
(03-14-2017, 06:16 PM)woodhead Wrote: What is the spec????  




Al

no one knows
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#44
(03-11-2017, 06:50 PM)JGrout Wrote: .023" is around 1/64" 

it is cutting  wood, that is flat enough

could it be better? probably. 

should it be better? maybe. 

Will it still cut wood? absolutely

(03-11-2017, 07:40 PM)Robert Adams Wrote: It's good enough. Too many people are looking for cnc machine shop tolerances on woodworking equipment and it isn't needed.

All of that.

I think the market and price point of the saw needs to be considered. Not saying anything wrong with getting that saw, but would I expect the top to not be flat to .001. Id be shocked if there was one better than what you have. Now if I paid thousands for a SS or PM2000....it would probably be unacceptable if I noticed. Heck, I bought my pm66 new, and it had the measurements for arbor run out and such in the crate. I never checked anything other than the miter gauge to the blade (even though there was a spec for it, I used a steel rule...was close enough for me) and setting the fence to the blade. Since day one, the only thing I have looked at since is squaring the blade to the table (I tilt the blade often) an thats in 9 years. 

In either event it will be fine. 

I am always amazed at how people measure their tools, and come up with something that's a hundredth or two out of "being perfect". Id be hard pressed to notice. I have my tablesaw fence out of parallel to the blade (tail end away from the blade) by around .06 give or take on purpose. I can imagine what some here would say about that. 
Sarcasm

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#45
(03-15-2017, 12:08 AM)packerguy® Wrote: I have my tablesaw fence out of parallel to the blade (tail end away from the blade) by around .06 give or take on purpose. I can imagine what some here would say about that. 
Sarcasm


Looking at a feeler gauge at 0.6 and keeping in mind that wood moves seasonally I will conclude you are not a bad person
Big Grin
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#46
(03-15-2017, 01:08 AM)Steve N Wrote: Looking at a feeler gauge at 0.6 and keeping in mind that wood moves seasonally I will conclude you are not a bad person
Big Grin

well other than being a traitor and a heretic 
Winkgrin
Winkgrin
Winkgrin
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#47
I checked my old Delta saw and the most I could get was about .009" all around. Maybe it was a freak.

I would think even .020" wouldn't make bad cuts unless it was spread across the whole top.
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#48
As I remember, the 45 or 90 degree blade stop is under this area of the table.  I found that I could put a hump in the table with a little pressure from the hand wheel against the stop.  If it really bothers you and is permanent, I would suggest clamping a 2X4 on edge parallel to the blade, with a small block over the hump and lightly tap the area with a hammer and wooden dowel to try to and minimize it.  Check frequently to see if it is making any difference.  It doesn't take much clamping pressure to move the table top.  Be sure the blade angle adjustment is not against one of the stops.

Sold my 22124 a few years ago with manual, so going from memory.
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#49
Cast iron is brittle and has no yield- be careful it will break.
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#50
Joe it's the way you sweet talk people that gives you that reputation
Laugh
Laugh
Laugh

Why pray tell is PG a traitor, and a heretic?
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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