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jlanciani
MM16 has flat tires, proper procedure on blades 1/2" and wider is to run the teeth off of the front of the wheel, not centered.
MiniMax owners manuals make every other manual you have ever read look like works of literary brilliance...
ETA, I love my MM20, but it was absolutely not plug and play. Apparently the Italians have decided that every new owner must pay penance before they are deemed worthy of using their machinery.
Yes, you are absolutely correct. With flat tires the teeth have to hang off the front of the tire. Sorry for the confusion. That's why you read the owner's manual.
If the MiniMax owner's manual is poor that suggests to me they really don't care about their customers. The manual for my lowly Grizzly is very well written, albeit with some grammar errors, and describes every adjustment process in detail. For the premium MM charges for their saws it amazes me that people reward them for poor customer service. It seems that most European woodworking equipment makers behave similarly, unfortunately.
John
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Yes...I'm pretty bummed about the photobucket thing.
I *THOUGHT* I had been putting 25,000 on it. Confirmed last night that I was way under because something in saw has changed. Will be tensioning it better now.
If I can in fact adjust the table to have the miter slot parallel to blade, then I'm fixed. Actually, after modifying the fence I'm probably fixed not as I have never used the miter slot.
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Mike, when do you use the miter slot on a bandsaw? In 15 years of ww'ing, I can't ever recall using it? What wonderful labor saving tiptrick am I missing?
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No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
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So they sell you a saw with parts off another saw and don't tell you? Nice.
Anyway, back to your saw. What carbide blade is it? Laguna will sharpen their Resaw King blades, and I'm sure Lennox themselves or several of their certified suppliers sharpen their carbide tipped blades. Dave Diaman may chime in if he reads this because I think he has had Lennox carbide blades resharpened.
Now that I've got it straight in my head that your saw has flat tires it's even easier to adjust the table parallel with the blade. Take the blade off, open or remove the guides, and put a straight edge against the wheels and align the miter slot with that.
Have you checked the wheel alignment yet? If they changed the guides who knows what else was done before it was sold to you. I would start from the ground up.
John
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jteneyck, a couple of points referring back to my OP. First, I always have been and remain very pleased with this saw. The cash out for metal in was a great deal, and their customer service has always been more than satisfactory to me. When I choose this saw, my biggest issue was not having any way (or local friends to help with) getting it to my house and in where it had to go. For the price of a high-truck dumping it on the curb, they gave me lift truck delivery and sent with it a driver who was kind enough to pull it off with a pallet jack and help me get it off the pallet into it's final location. That is excellent service and the memory of that more than makes up for a few hassles years later during a period when MM and Powermax were transitioning.
Originally I never checked all the detailed alignments because it was perfect from the get-go. When I first hooked it up and plugged it in I went ahead and started resawing slices off of a 2x12 as a test. It cut perfectly from the moment I had turned it on and tensioned the blade--as you would expect from a floor model that had already been setup as a demo unit. Actually part of the reason I took the floor model was that I didn't know how to use and setup a bandsaw and felt (correctly as it turns out) that the demo model would be set up already. This problem I'm posting about is a NEW set issues. New after 15+ years of good use. So yeah, I need to get in and measure the details. I just want to be sure that no one in the thread gets the idea that I was sold a bad saw, I was sold a very good saw. I also don't want anyone to get the idea that MM customer service is poor, it also has been good for me. I'm pretty sure I was not told about the guide mounting system swap out because the guides I got were from a much more expensive saw and the customer service people considered an inexplicable upgrade.
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John, it's a Lennox Trimaster with carbide teeth. I'll look up Dave Diaman and PM him. Thanks.
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I don't want to hijack your thread but while we are on the subject of MM 16's I need a new plastic throat plate for mine and i've never figured out how to/where t buy parts. Any info appreciated.
My real fear is, that when I'm gone she'll sell my WW tools for what I said I paid for them.
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Just realized I have what I believe is a never used 1" Trimaster but 15 years old. I never had the blade cut down to 154".
It has a 0.039" thick backing vs a 0.024" for my ResawKing. The RK looks like it may be 3/4. The Lennox sure is stiff.
Have you tried a newer steel blade just to see how it tracks.
My real fear is, that when I'm gone she'll sell my WW tools for what I said I paid for them.
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(07-19-2017, 10:16 AM)Chipper_Jr Wrote: I don't want to hijack your thread but while we are on the subject of MM 16's I need a new plastic throat plate for mine and i've never figured out how to/where t buy parts. Any info appreciated.
I have been making wood inserts since my saw was new.
they work just fine.
or ask yahoo user group
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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07-19-2017, 01:55 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-19-2017, 01:56 PM by Chipper_Jr.)
Probably should get a set of tires as well, while they're still available. Mine are both flat.
My real fear is, that when I'm gone she'll sell my WW tools for what I said I paid for them.
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