Upgrade help

[charliez]

At the risk if sidelining the topic...I have never had a variable speed until now. The way the 50's lathe I had was setup, I just put it on the lowest pulley and left it. it would have taken all day to change the speed.


he failed to rotate by hand I always rotate the piece before pressing go go go. I also see on YouTube all the time, people adjusting the tool rest while it's moving. I never do that. I stop...adjust..rotate to chance clearance...then press go.


why turn up the rpm while you're cutting...now I start on the lowest speed...0...then dial up and see how it's going. I'm still not sure what speed to use wen. That will come with time I'm sure.

[RustyN]

Just pulled the plug and ordered the Record Power.

[charliez]

Good deal. The important thing is you ordered what you felt was the best fit for you. One thing I try to tell myself is, now, stop shopping. That way you won't second guess yourself. Hopefully, with things they way they are, it won't take too long to come in. I was able to have mine shipped to my work where we have a receiving dock and someone always there. Another downer for me, that I had to plan for, nothing I was using on the 1952 model would work on a modern machine.

[MichaelMouse]

Just pulled the plug and ordered the Record Power.

One more suggestion from a craven turner.

Set a "kill" switch near the tailstock so you won't have to risk human damage reaching through the disintegration zone if you fail to clear and/or balance a piece.  Until it becomes a habit to do so.  Something similar to this. Power Tool Safety Switch (infinitytools.com)

[Wildwood]

Because very little is known about the Record Power Coronet Envoy 16” or 18” no real reviews from owners here. Looking at the outrigger in the video and optional one offered at Highland Woodworking gives me pause. JMHO would prefer the one in the video. Not sure why that Outrigger system available in Europe but not here. I would not buy that lathe for sole purpose of using it for outboard, given what’s available here.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/reco...lathe.aspx

If link works scroll down to Outrigger Attachment for Envoy & Regent lathes:
https://www.recordpoer.co.uk/product/env...opean-plug

Recommend turning between centers with tailstock support especially when rough turning green wood. A lathe with 16” swing will allow you to turn bigger bowls/platters than your current lathe.

I would look into adding weight to base of legs, have a platform and concrete blocks on my Jet 1642.
Harvest my wood for turning and 99% of it is wet and heavy. Even at slow speed can get things rocking with out of balance/round bowl blanks. Have never thought about sliding my headstock to end of ways to turn larger items. Not many people have a place for extra large turnings even if free. Most wives don’t want bowls or platters bigger than 14” round.

Good luck with new Lathe!

[RustyN]

One more suggestion from a craven turner.

Set a "kill" switch near the tailstock so you won't have to risk human damage reaching through the disintegration zone if you fail to clear and/or balance a piece.  Until it becomes a habit to do so.  Something similar to this. Power Tool Safety Switch (infinitytools.com)

There is a kill switch in the pendant. The pendant has a start button, emergency stop, f/r and speed control. That was one of the main features that attracted me. It is magnetic and can be moved with me. I will never have to reach around anything.

[RustyN]

Wildwood I am not buying it for the sole purpose of turning outboard. I bought it for the extra four inches over the bed and power. I wanted the rotating head so I can turn the head 22.5 to 45 degrees so I can stand in front of the bowl to hollow it out. The outboard turning I look at as a bonus if or when I ever get to that point.

[RustyN]

Good deal.  The important thing is you ordered what you felt was the best fit for you.  One thing I try to tell myself is, now, stop shopping.  That way you won't second guess yourself.  Hopefully, with things they way they are, it won't take too long to come in. I was able to have mine shipped to my work where we have a receiving dock and someone always there.  Another downer for me, that I had to plan for, nothing I was using on the 1952 model would work on a modern machine.

I am thinking it might be here Friday but not going to get my hopes up. It is shipping UPS. I told them I didn’t need a lift gate because I have a tractor with front loader. They gave me the option to pick it up at the UPS terminal for $50 less. I took that option with it only being five miles from my house. I have the same problem with my old lathe having a 1”-8 tpi spindle. The only thing I should need is a new Chuck with my old Chuck not being rated for a lathe this large anyway. Going to buy another Nova Chuck so at least I can use all of the different jaws I have.

[iclark]

I am thinking it might be here Friday but not going to get my hopes up. It is shipping UPS. I told them I didn’t need a lift gate because I have a tractor with front loader. They gave me the option to pick it up at the UPS terminal for $50 less. I took that option with it only being five miles from my house. I have the same problem with my old lathe having a 1”-8 tpi spindle. The only thing I should need is a new Chuck with my old Chuck not being rated for a lathe this large anyway. Going to buy another Nova Chuck so at least I can use all of the different jaws I have.

If your old chuck is a Nova-brand and uses an insert, you can use it on your new lathe just by buying a new insert. Based on some issues that I have had, I would recommend that the insert actually be a Teknatool brand insert.

If it is a direct-threaded chuck, then there are 1"x8 to 1-1/4"x8 adapters available. If you need one, it might be worth starting a thread about good sources for precision adapters. I have not bought one recently and the quality can vary immensely between brands or even for a given brand when they change country of manufacturing.

Your old chuck can still hold the same size blanks as it did on your old lathe.

I have been sticking with Nova chucks in my shop since that is what I bought first. I decided from the beginning that I wanted "righty-tighty" to mean the same thing for every chuck in my shop. Oneway and Teknatool define righty-tighty opposite from each other: one considers "tightening" for gripping a tenon and the other considers "tightening" as expanding into a recess.

As you move to larger pieces, it is even more important to stop every so often and confirm that the chuck is still tight. Also, if you leave a piece on the lathe overnight or during a lunch/bio break, you need to double check tight before you start the next time.

Others here are much better than me, but it really helps me when I am tired to have "tightening" mean the same thing every time.

Also, in the probably old news category, the Nova 50mm jaws are not dovetail in compression mode. Some of us have outgrown several T-shirts before we truly understood that.

[RustyN]

Thanks iclark. My Chuck is a Nova G3 and is threaded 1”. I have seen the adapter and will probably get one for smaller things. The new Chuck is a supernova 2 and comes with the correct insert for the new lathe and will be used for larger things.