Do you actually use 52ish inch rip capacity?

[TDKPE]

Forgot to mention that my extension table is also my assembly table, as there just isn’t much room in my shop.  So it serves two purposes and takes less space than two dedicated tools.

And the other thing that table and long rail system does is store my fence when I cross cut.  Just slide it out of the way, and slide it back when it’s needed again.  Maybe not a big deal to some, but way more convenient when alternating between configurations.

I also have a small shaper, but if I change to a router table, it will be in that long extension table, both for convenience with the Biesemeyer fence, and so that the table serves yet another function.  

[handi]

Most cabinets shops (mine doesn't) need a 30 thousand straight line ripper for straightening ply that is already straight. The big boys that you consult with have the dough for that. Most smaller shops don't, and if they use their heads they never will. The big boys use them to get some fresh meat on the ply for glue-ups. They rip all ply so the drones that assembly those cabinets don't have to think about it. Just glue and assemble.

Buy quality cabinet grade ply and it is straight. I have a 4' long fence on the saw I use and never have a problem cutting sheeting straight that is already straight.
And I haven't bought into the circular saw and guide rail for doing all that time consuming ripping. Yes, I have a guide rail but use it on those 1-off end cuts that I can't do on the table saw.

You do you. Literally, you are the fist cabinet shop I have ever encountered (and in 30+ years in the business that number is in the thousands) that does not routinely cut the factory edge of plywood off.

And yes, I have cut the edge of stock costing more than $150.00 per sheet, so I have used quality plywood.

[Derek Cohen]

A table saw only requires a 52” if sheet goods need to be sawn. Even then, a circular saw can reduce panels to useable sizes.

My previous table saw had 52” rails, and for 20 years it just took up precious space, even with a router table built into the extension. My current saw has 31” rails, and I have not needed nor missed the extra length in the 5 years I have had this saw.

The central reason for this is that I do not work with sheet goods. I only work with solid wood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[KyleD]

Handi, I have watched your videos and respect you abilities. P.S. I wonder how much that $150 plywood would cost right now?

Are you saying the edge of your plywood is crooked to the point you cannot use it for a reference or are you saying not to leave the factory edge in a project?
I agree to never leaving the factory edge. I always rip the strips a 1/4" wide then rip to final size on the other edge. I have come across plywood that is not square but cannot remember using new plywood that does not have at least one straight long edge.
An eyeball down the edge is quite good at seeing any waves or curves in the edge. Plus the table saw fence is ok at spanning small dents and other imperfections in the factory edge.

[MT Woodworker]

A table saw only requires a 52” if sheet goods need to be sawn. Even then, a circular saw can reduce panels to useable sizes.

My previous table saw had 52” rails, and for 20 years it just took up precious space, even with a router table built into the extension. My current saw has 31” rails, and I have not needed nor missed the extra length in the 5 years I have had this saw.

The central reason for this is that I do not work with sheet goods. I only work with solid wood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I agree completely, unless using sheet goods all the time, it’s a waste of space and money.
I use sheet goods now and then, a worm drive skill saw and a straight edge more than enough to break down into usable sizes.
Majority are not cabinet shops, so no need....

[handi]

Handi, I have watched your videos and respect you abilities. P.S. I wonder how much that $150 plywood would cost right now?

Are you saying the edge of your plywood is crooked to the point you cannot use it for a reference or are you saying not to leave the factory edge in a project?
I agree to never leaving the factory edge. I always rip the strips a 1/4" wide then rip to final size on the other edge. I have come across plywood that is not square but cannot remember using new plywood that does not have at least one straight long edge.
An eyeball down the edge is quite good at seeing any waves or curves in the edge. Plus the table saw fence is ok at spanning small dents and other imperfections in the factory edge.

Kyle, it is simply unsafe to make a rip cut with an uneven edge riding the rip fence.
No different than ripping a solid wood board with an unjointed edge.

[KyleD]

I must be living life right. We will have to agree to disagree. Live long and prosper Handi.
 
I have never came across plywood sheets that had any kind of edge defects and warps like a rough board can have. I do have an 18" or so long sanding block made of aluminum angles with 80 grit I will run along a ply edge if it is suspect. That is mainly to catch small goobers and splinters that could catch the fence.

I have come across plywood that has twist and bowing across the plane. I would imagine those would give a straight-line ripper trouble as well as it does a table saw with a fence. If the warp can be pushed down as it goes across the saw it may be usable. If the warp cannot be pushed down it is not worth trying to use in case goods.

[Handplanesandmore]

Let me say this: cabinet work has more tolerance than anything else. Oh well, at least same thinking from all cabinetmakers and house renov guys I know.

How do we deal with sheet goods on a tablesaw? 

Cut one fresh edge on the table saw using ANY factory edge that looks straight against the saw fence. Then use that fresh edge as your ref edge. The fresh edge is straight provided the saw is properly tuned regardless of whether that ply edge is dead straight or not.

Who says you can rely on factory edges is gambling, and who says you need a CNC or a track saw to edge cut a factory is overstating.


Yes, you'll need the 52" rip fence if you use mostly sheet goods. Unless you have a track saw system to handle them. But as others have said, it's a waste of space for most people.


Simon

[Mike in kc]

I use the 52" capacity occasionally, but I also built my shop air cleaner/sanding table into the addition as well.

[KC]

I must be living life right. We will have to agree to disagree. Live long and prosper Handi.
 
I have never came across plywood sheets that had any kind of edge defects and warps like a rough board can have. I do have an 18" or so long sanding block made of aluminum angles with 80 grit I will run along a ply edge if it is suspect. That is mainly to catch small goobers and splinters that could catch the fence.

I have come across plywood that has twist and bowing across the plane. I would imagine those would give a straight-line ripper trouble as well as it does a table saw with a fence. If the warp can be pushed down as it goes across the saw it may be usable. If the warp cannot be pushed down it is not worth trying to use in case goods.

I'll break down a sheet of MDF with the circular saw simply because of the weight.   I'll typically put the whole sheet of plywood right on the tablesaw.  The first operation is to rip it in half... so I'm working with a 'cut' edge after that, not the factory edge.