Powermatic 66 Installation Help

[artistwantab]

According to label connect wires marked 1&8 to line 1 and connect  wire marked 4 to line 2  and connect wires J & 5 together and nothing else. This is for standard rotation if that is what you need .    Roly

Thank you.

[TDKPE]

I've been working on a cold and haven't been posting, but it looks like Roly has it all covered anyway.  I would just add that you should check that the control voltage of the motor control is the same as your mains voltage.  The contactor, going from a 5 hp three-phase to a 3 hp single-phase is probably ok for that motor, assuming the original motor was 240V.  If the original motor was connected for 240V, you should be in fine shape.

Or has that already been covered?  I'm still in a fog here.  

[Roly]

I've been working on a cold and haven't been posting, but it looks like Roly has it all covered anyway.  I would just add that you should check that the control voltage of the motor control is the same as your mains voltage.  The contactor, going from a 5 hp three-phase to a 3 hp single-phase is probably ok for that motor, assuming the original motor was 240V.  If the original motor was connected for 240V, you should be in fine shape.

Or has that already been covered?  I'm still in a fog here.  

TDKPE
The original motor was rated for 230/460v 3 ø  per name plate, there were 3 small transformers attached to the unit so I would assume at least the control voltage was 230v and probably the motor.   I don't know what the overloads were set at or what they should be.  I would think going from 5 hp 3ø to 3 hp 1ø the amperage would be close as far as the overloads and wire size between the starter and motor.    Roly

[EvilTwin]

TDKPE
The original motor was rated for 230/460v 3 ø  per name plate, there were 3 small transformers attached to the unit so I would assume at least the control voltage was 230v and probably the motor.   I don't know what the overloads were set at or what they should be.  I would think going from 5 hp 3ø to 3 hp 1ø the amperage would be close as far as the overloads and wire size between the starter and motor.    Roly

Was the black mag switch original to the saw or did you get it along with the motor?  I ask because the link to the site where you got the motor shows the same controller.

Not to go over what you might already know, but 220 single phase has two hots (red and black), a neutral (white) and a ground (green).  You have 220 between the two hots, 110 between either hot and neutral.  So, according to the diagram you posted, one hot gets connected to line A, the other hot gets connected to line B and the other two get connected together  to J and 5.   Now how they wire up in the switch I cant say without seeing either a diagram or some up close pics.  Are the wires in the motor junction box labeled 1,8, j,4 and 5?

[TDKPE]

This is what your new motor looks like, electrically.  It's sketched showing standard rotation, which I think the PM66 requires, but to reverse rotation, 5 and 8 are swapped as usual.  Single-voltage, reversible, with automatic overload protection (since it has the "J" motor lead).

   

[artistwantab]

Thank you all.

I hope its done correctly but before powering it on and doing damage to the motor I figured I would get some input.

   

Above are the connections at the motor.

1&8 Connected to Line 1 (white)

4 Connected to Line 2 (Black)

J&5 Connected together to the right.

   

Here is the power switch before I touched anything other then removing the previous motor.

   

Diagram next to switch....

   

From Motor...

Line 1 L1(white) put in T1 slot
Line 2 L2(Black) Put in T2 slot

to Plug 

I am being frugal and wanting to save so I am using the same power cord to plug...

I removed the RED wire connect Line 2 from switch as it is obsolete...

I moved the two wires Black and other red wire connected to L3 Line 3 to Line 2.

The only thing I question was keeping the line 3 red wire together with the black and moving both to line 1.

Any help is much appreciated.

[PedroOhare]

Don't know anything about motors, but could you take a video and post it the first time you fire it up? There are a lot of people cheering you on and would like to share your thrill.

Pedro

[TDKPE]

Thank you all.

I hope its done correctly but before powering it on and doing damage to the motor I figured I would get some input.



Above are the connections at the motor.

1&8 Connected to Line 1 (white)

4 Connected to Line 2 (Black)

J&5 Connected together to the right.



Here is the power switch before I touched anything other then removing the previous motor.



Diagram next to switch....



From Motor...

Line 1 L1(white) put in T1 slot
Line 2 L2(Black) Put in T2 slot

to Plug 

I am being frugal and wanting to save so I am using the same power cord to plug...

I removed the RED wire connect Line 2 from switch as it is obsolete...

I moved the two wires Black and other red wire connected to L3 Line 3 to Line 2.

The only thing I question was keeping the line 3 red wire together with the black and moving both to line 1.

Any help is much appreciated.

I'm not exactly clear on what you did, but you could have simply snipped off the red at L2, with nothing connected to T2, and be good to go.  The little red wires are the control loop, so once the main contactor is engaged (which also pulls in the aux contactor with the little red wires to it), the motor is energized and the coil on the main contactor is also energized and holds the contacts closed.  Shutting it off involves breaking the control loop, probably through the button that proud of the aux contact set.

You can test it without the motor by just popping off the T1 and T2 leads, plugging it in, and seeing if the contactor closes and stays closed, and opens when the Stop button is pushed.

The motor itself seems to be connected correctly.

Are you SURE the contactor coil is 240VAC?  If it's 480V or some other higher voltage, you won't hurt it, but it may not pull in and hold.

[Roly]

Thank you all.

I hope its done correctly but before powering it on and doing damage to the motor I figured I would get some input.



Above are the connections at the motor.

1&8 Connected to Line 1 (white)

4 Connected to Line 2 (Black)

J&5 Connected together to the right.



Here is the power switch before I touched anything other then removing the previous motor.



Diagram next to switch....



From Motor...

Line 1 L1(white) put in T1 slot
Line 2 L2(Black) Put in T2 slot

to Plug 

I am being frugal and wanting to save so I am using the same power cord to plug...

I removed the RED wire connect Line 2 from switch as it is obsolete...

I moved the two wires Black and other red wire connected to L3 Line 3 to Line 2.

The only thing I question was keeping the line 3 red wire together with the black and moving both to line 1.

Any help is much appreciated.

If this is the red wire in the cable going either to the plug or motor what is the other end of it connected to ?  Roly

[artistwantab]

I'm not exactly clear on what you did, but you could have simply snipped off the red at L2, with nothing connected to T2, and be good to go.  The little red wires are the control loop, so once the main contactor is engaged (which also pulls in the aux contactor with the little red wires to it), the motor is energized and the coil on the main contactor is also energized and holds the contacts closed.  Shutting it off involves breaking the control loop, probably through the button that proud of the aux contact set.

You can test it without the motor by just popping off the T1 and T2 leads, plugging it in, and seeing if the contactor closes and stays closed, and opens when the Stop button is pushed.

The motor itself seems to be connected correctly.

Are you SURE the contactor coil is 240VAC?  If it's 480V or some other higher voltage, you won't hurt it, but it may not pull in and hold.

   

This is what is labeled on the switch.

Thanks for the tip. Once I get some final input I will do just that and disconnect the motor and see if there is power.