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Alan S said:
Rick:
Wouldn't a splitter have prevented this? It seems to me that the workpiece pivoted around the corner as it was sucked back under the blade, until as you point out the upward force bent the blade out of the way and threw the piece. Wouldn't a splitter have prevented that original pivot?
Alan, that's a real good question, but I am not sure it would have prevented the kickback in this particular case. A splitter will reduce the likelihood that the workpiece will be controlled by the rear teeth, but it will not prevent it. A splitter can be heeled over just as much as a blade can, so in this particular case, the results might have been somewhat different, but the kickback would probably still have occurred.
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Get one of these or make one
BURN THE PUSH STICK
I'm not saying that would have prevented the accident but get one!!!
JEFF
If it doesn't fit get a bigger hammer
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Glad your not hurt and hope you learned about where to not let the wood go....
Reminds me of freshman year woodshop class and the first day when the instructor made a hunk of 2x6 kick back on purpose and it literally shattered and knocked a chunk out of the cinder block wall. He did it to make the point to pay attention and DO NOT walk infront of the saw when someone was working!
Pics BTW.
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
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Do they make those about 4 inches wide?
"That's like getting a running start and diving headfirst into the vortex."
Steve Freidman 4/21/2013
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You could make one that wide if you want but that's not the point. You're holding down on the board and pushing it through at the same time.
JEFF
If it doesn't fit get a bigger hammer
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That's exactly what I use and I'd get it again.
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Did you have that Grip-tite past the blade (i.e., on the outfeed side) when you made the cut? That, and no splitter, contributed to the kickback.
The Lexan panels on those things are so stiff, they are tricky to use. One can easily apply too much pressure with them. If there was a sideways component to the down force from that Grip-tite (dependent on the specific shape of the paddle, and could easily be significant due to the stiffness of the paddles), it would tend to push the piece toward the rising teeth of the blade.
I bought a Grip-tite several years ago, and rarely use it. The other type of block, with the multiple plastic or wooden fingers, provide a much more controllable pressure, IMHO.
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Lumber Yard said:
However saying that a trapped bevel cut is safer than a cut with the blade beveled away from the fence is just not the way I see it.
I never said it was safer, I said that the occurrence was less likely to happen in the first place.
When it comes to safety, I prefer to be proactive versus reactive. I prefer to prevent an accident from ever occurring, as opposed to minimizing the damages from an accident that is more likely to occur.
You hear about blade tilt being warned very frequently, but aside from today, how often do you hear about this type of kickback actually occurring? I pay attention to kickback stories because I have been studying kickbacks for years, and I cannot remember the last time I heard about a kickback posting with a right-tilt blade before today.
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There was a Grip-tite in front of the blade and one behind the blade. The one in front of the blade is the one that went through the window. I periodically review the DVD that came with the Grip-tite and the tension on the Lexan, I believe, is the suggested amount. The magnetic pressure exerted by the Grip-tite is approximately 50 pounds, this was discarded faster then you could see.
"That's like getting a running start and diving headfirst into the vortex."
Steve Freidman 4/21/2013
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True you didn't say it was safer but your posts in this thread are certainly pointing folks to use a "trapped" bevel cut over a "untrapped" bevel cut.
I guess we are splitting hairs at this point. I am the first guy to say you are a smart dood and I appreciate your knowledge on WN. However, in this specific case despite your argument to the contrary I still believe an "untrapped" bevel cut is safer.
With all things being equal prior to the cut and with zero chance of kickback what cut do you make?
With all things being equal prior to the cut with 100% certainty of kickback what cut do you make?
