12-22-2012, 12:41 PM
Hi saw sharpeners...
This is an example of what will happen if you don't joint the teeth before filing your saw.
Jointing the teeth each time you file, gives you a flat on the point of the teeth to use as a reference as to how much to file off of each tooth. Jointing also makes all the points even with each other and creates a straight tooth edge, unlike the poor old Atkins saw in this picture. I suggest that you joint even if you are only touching up dull teeth.
The teeth on this saw all have sharp points, but trust me, this saw does not cut better than if it was only dull.
Can this saw be fixed? Yes it can. But, a lot of the blade will be filed away during the early multiple stages of jointing and filing. The saw could be retoothed on a retoothing machine but you would lose more of the saw blade than if you do it by hand.
For this particular saw, the first jointing would only leave flats on the teeth on about 4 or 5 inches at the back end. The rest of the tooth edge should not be jointed. Other saws will be different, no two will be the same. Keep jointing and filing in small stages until the jointing leaves a flat on all the teeth. Only file those teeth that have flats. When filing the flats, only file off half of the flat on every other tooth, then file the other half of the flat from the alternating teeth. Whether you want the saw to be a rip profile or crosscut, a saw like this must be reshaped by filing straight across and file with the rake angle you will want the teeth to have whether for a rip or crosscut.
This is an example of what will happen if you don't joint the teeth before filing your saw.
Jointing the teeth each time you file, gives you a flat on the point of the teeth to use as a reference as to how much to file off of each tooth. Jointing also makes all the points even with each other and creates a straight tooth edge, unlike the poor old Atkins saw in this picture. I suggest that you joint even if you are only touching up dull teeth.
The teeth on this saw all have sharp points, but trust me, this saw does not cut better than if it was only dull.
Can this saw be fixed? Yes it can. But, a lot of the blade will be filed away during the early multiple stages of jointing and filing. The saw could be retoothed on a retoothing machine but you would lose more of the saw blade than if you do it by hand.
For this particular saw, the first jointing would only leave flats on the teeth on about 4 or 5 inches at the back end. The rest of the tooth edge should not be jointed. Other saws will be different, no two will be the same. Keep jointing and filing in small stages until the jointing leaves a flat on all the teeth. Only file those teeth that have flats. When filing the flats, only file off half of the flat on every other tooth, then file the other half of the flat from the alternating teeth. Whether you want the saw to be a rip profile or crosscut, a saw like this must be reshaped by filing straight across and file with the rake angle you will want the teeth to have whether for a rip or crosscut.
Catchalater,
Marv
I did then what I knew how to do. Now that I know better, I do better.”
― Maya Angelou
I'm working toward my PHD. (Projects Half Done)
Marv
I did then what I knew how to do. Now that I know better, I do better.”
― Maya Angelou
I'm working toward my PHD. (Projects Half Done)