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They are (relatively) high starting torque motors, with relatively low current for what they output, when capacitor-start hadn't yet been invented. DC was also common then, and they have similar torque characteristics. You could buy a Unisaw with a DC motor up into the 50's or 60's, in fact, and the RI motors were common up to then, too. So it's just yesterday's equivalent to cap-start, more or less.
But with the wire-wound rotor and brush system, they're expensive. And complicated. No wonder split-phase and cap-start (though cap-start is technically split-phase) motors took over. And 3-phase, the simplest of all of them, with just one moving part.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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Yer supposed to vaccumn and sweep every iota of dust before taking pictures. Looks like you actually do woodworking.You could be a candidate for some of the upstairs forums.
mike
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Thank you for the explanation, Tom. Does your motor work, or will it be rewound?
Yes, Tom I just reread and I see it runs fine, then it's just some rust and paint removal and it's finished, restored?
Andrew
"That's like getting a running start and diving headfirst into the vortex."
Steve Freidman 4/21/2013
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I was going to crack it open and at the very least clean it up. At worst, cut the commutator and make other internal repairs.
I'll probably just put it back in the corner and forget about it. Or sell it. Or something.
I don't need it, and I don't even know why I got it, other than I like old motors.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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TDKPE said:
They are (relatively) high starting torque motors,...
And don't forget, quiet.
Unisaw A-100
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I gave up on the battle with dust once I got a lathe.
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I don't have any vintage machinery, but I have really enjoyed this thread. I think it's fantastic that so many folks are into restoring and using these great old tools. Kudos to you all and thanks to Roland for starting this thread.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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Unisaw A100 said:
[blockquote]TDKPE said:
They are (relatively) high starting torque motors,...
And don't forget, quiet.
Unisaw A-100
[/blockquote]Size really does matter.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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I know I'm a little late to this party, but here's my contribution to Old Arn.
" />
It's a 12" jointer manufactured by SCMI and marketed through Rockwell. I understand that Rockwell sold this jointer for a few years in the mid-70s. It has straight knives, but I am considering putting a Byrd head on it. AZEngineer has this same jointer, and a couple of years ago he posted a thread on installing the Byrd on his, so someday I might give it a try. You might notice that its has a home-made turret stop for adjusting the depth of cut, much like a plunge router. The previous owner made this stop and its very clever and useful for repeating depth of cuts.
I also have an old Boice Crane lathe with a six foot bed. The picture is not great as it's covered with stuff, but you get the idea.
" />
The previous owner had the longer bed made for it so he could turn long bed posts for a project. I also have a Boice Crane 27" scroll saw but unfortunately don't have a picture readily available. The scroll saw has a 5" depth of cut. It's currently undergoing a recondtioning as the case leaks oil.
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Location: Baker City Or-A-Gun
LIL
I have about $50 into this drill press. It wasn't running, so I took a chance. A new starter capacitor, and it's been running since.
It's an amazing piece of iron. Very smooth-running. And I love the Variable Speed.
