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Hi Reed
To fit the infill nice and tightly, use a magic marker or, better, the end of a scraper blade, to scribe along the top edge of the infill. Use a chisel to pare this away. Fit the infill again, and be prepared to do this again until the infill is tight to the top. You will likely need to remove a similar amount from the bsole of the infill.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Quote:
Would it somehow be helpful to use playdough or modeling clay to fill the "mold" and then use that as a reference for how big to make the wood?
That is exactly what I was thinks as well, Martin....That would provide the shape and all the measurements needed...
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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Timberwolf said:
[blockquote]Quote:
Would it somehow be helpful to use playdough or modeling clay to fill the "mold" and then use that as a reference for how big to make the wood?
That is exactly what I was thinks as well, Martin....That would provide the shape and all the measurements needed...
[/blockquote]
That will not work - how will you transfer the marks to the real wood? They will be back-to-front.
Make paper templates ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
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KlausK. said:
The begin looks good...
The enterprise is ambitious though. An overstuffed infill plane is tricky to make. Your's is even more difficult since the plane body is closed at the front and at the rear and because that all isn't difficult enough, the body is coffin shaped additionally. I don't think that more hurdles are possible.
If I had to attack this task, I'd go with a fake out of cheap wood just to find out, where the main issues will be. It might be a good idea to make precise patterns of the bottom area of the body and of the sidelines as well.
I'm really curious about the progress, it will be more than interesting to follow this thread.
Good Luck
Klaus
I agree with all Klaus says here. It will be interesting.
-w
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Assuming your ifill to this point is equal in all dimensions templets really are the way to go.they allow you to actually lay them on the wood and center all the dimensions so you remove only the amount necessary. When you get close like this it becomes a rasp and filing operation which while time consuming is much better for a perfect fit. Spend the time to go slowly taking a little from each side or edge or whatever needs tweeking till it fits snugly on both sides. Time and patience are your best friend at the last fitting stages. Len
ex-INFILL MAGNET
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Quote:
how will you transfer the marks to the real wood?
Measure the mold and transfer the data to the wood.
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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Timberwolf said:
[blockquote]Quote:
how will you transfer the marks to the real wood?
Measure the mold and transfer the data to the wood.
[/blockquote]
Hi Jack
You know that will not be accurate as the outline is irregular.
You want to be able to trace directly, and cut to that mark.
Regards from Perth
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My advice is to sell off this---and buy a Woodie Smoother.
You wouldn't say that if a juju man had messed with your mojo. Kizar 7-19-13
But when an outsider threatens our President, and a miserable camel humping piece of pig turd at that, Charlie D. 2/3/15
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Todd O. Cronkhite said:
My advice is to sell off this---and buy a Woodie Smoother.
See ya around,
Dominic
------------------------------
Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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Todd O. Cronkhite said:
My advice is to sell off this---and buy a Woodie Smoother.
wonderful advice. . .
You don't need a parachute to go skydiving unless you want to do it more than once. . .