Turning Custom Screwdrivers - Survey

[AHill]

I've seen a few approaches to doing this. I'm going to use the Lee Valley lifetime screwdriver shanks (shafts), and I'd like to use brass compression fittings for the ferrules. I have some nice Macassar ebony and Cocobolo that I think would make nice handles. Turning the handle itself seems a no brainer to me. The questions I have are about the other parts.

1. Do you drill the hole for the shaft before or after you've turned the handle?

2. Kerf or no kerf in the tenon for the wings on the shaft?

3. If using a brass compression fitting for the ferrule, what tool do you use to round it off, and what speed?

4. When parting off the handle, do you turn it back around and turn the very tip (top) or do you just hand sand it?

5. Glue or no glue on the shaft?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

[badwhiskey]

Here's a good tutorial:

http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/1532...ewdrivers/

My recollection is I did it quite similar to that tutorial. Drilled the handle first, turned the brass like wood, no special speed or tools, just took very small bites. I'm pretty sure I used a live center for some support, parted it off, and just sanded. But it'd be easy enough to turn it around and trim it up. I don't remember on the kerf cuts. Almost certain I glued (epoxy) mine.

It's been awhile, and I only made two.

[Arlin Eastman]

AHill said:

---

I've seen a few approaches to doing this. I'm going to use the Lee Valley lifetime screwdriver shanks (shafts), and I'd like to use brass compression fittings for the ferrules. I have some nice Macassar ebony and Cocobolo that I think would make nice handles. Turning the handle itself seems a no brainer to me. The questions I have are about the other parts.

1. Do you drill the hole for the shaft before or after you've turned the handle?

2. Kerf or no kerf in the tenon for the wings on the shaft?

3. If using a brass compression fitting for the ferrule, what tool do you use to round it off, and what speed?

4. When parting off the handle, do you turn it back around and turn the very tip (top) or do you just hand sand it?

5. Glue or no glue on the shaft?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

---

Allan

I also thought about buying Lee Valley's screwdrivers for the Vets or Kids to make for parents. They come with the ferrel. Also I would predrill the wood and use a 60* into the hole to stableize it.

I always use 15 minute epoxy to glue the shafts into the hole and these are ment to stay in the woodholder.

hope it helps
Arlin

[SteveS]

I did a set of the LV screwdrivers in cocobolo a couple years ago. I used C330 brass tubing I found on Amazon. It was the most economical form I could find. I bought the ferrules from LV, but they are crap.

I drilled the shank hole first on the lathe so it would be concentric with the handle and I could use the cone tip on the live center.

I did glue the ferrules on, but make sure that it is a zero tolerance or interference fit so that when you press in the driver it won't crack the wood. Also orient the shank wings to the grain to reduce potential cracking. there is no need to put glue on the shaft if you are using a hard wood. there is no way it's coming out. I was surprised how difficult it was to press the large driver into the hole.

I have bunch of the 3/4" x 3/4" brass ferrules left if you are interested.

[BaileyNo5]

AHill said:

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Hi AHill

Here's my build process. Bocote Screwdriver & Bit Box

1. Do you drill the hole for the shaft before or after you've turned the handle?
After.

2. Kerf or no kerf in the tenon for the wings on the shaft?
The more screwdrivers I did, the more of the wings got ground away. But I usually left a little bit, and drilled small holes for them to slide into.

3. If using a brass compression fitting for the ferrule, what tool do you use to round it off, and what speed?
I didn't use brass compression fittings, I used these. Just chuck 'em up in the lathe and cut off the little end with a hacksaw (process not OSHA approved). They are already round, so they just need a little sanding. And they have a nice lip left over after cutting, that covers the end grain of the handle.




4. When parting off the handle, do you turn it back around and turn the very tip (top) or do you just hand sand it?
The way I do it, the top of the handle is chucked, so it's easy to use a parting tool and spindle gouge to get a pretty clean break. What's left is chiseled and sanded clean.

5. Glue or no glue on the shaft?
West Systems Epoxy.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

---

[NCPaladin]

Just as a tip. If you do epoxy the tool in, wrap paper tape around and drill a pin (as in straight pin) size hole from the side to the bottom of the hole. It will allow pressure to be released or for excess epoxy to ooze out if you put in too much when you insert the bit. Then peel off the tape.

[Ruler2112]

I've never turned screwdrivers from a kit or turning supply house, but have made several from regular screwdrivers that I broke the handles off of. (Done intentionally to get the shafts out of the crappy handles. Yep - I'm cheap. ) A piece of copper water pipe will make an ungodly number of ferrules, look great when trued with a skew & sanded shiny, plus they don't corrode if you wipe them with the same shellac I use to finish most of my turnings with (including screwdrivers). I turn the basic handle, put the ferrule on w/epoxy, drill it, then use the tailstock with a piece of scrap wood as a vise to force the shaft into the wood without epoxy.

So far, I've had no complaints.

[jnesmith]

For ferrules, I just use brass tubing from McMaster, and use a cheap pipe cutter to cut to size.

[fredhargis]

Based on my grand experience of doing this ONCE (the other shafts are still sitting on my bench): 1) I drilled the hole after I turned the handle (and I managed to get it crooked)

2) I didn't cut a kerf for the wings, the shaft went right into my hard maple handle easily enough with a little help from my vise.

3) I used a piece of copper pipe, and haven't smoothed it out yet (still bummed about the crooked hole )

4)I just hand sanded the end of the handle

5) no glue in my case, and I'll tell ya', those suckers are pretty tight if your hole is the right size. Remember the crooked hole? I can't get the shaft out to start over; another bummer.

I should also point out as a newbie turner trying to learn to use the skew: I didn't find making the handle all that stright forward, mine is way too large

[Blacky's Boy]

Sort of late to the party here, but here goes:

I got sick of drilling off center holes. That's usually where I screw up. So I moved that process to the beginning. So if I do mess up, it's not so bad.

1.) Between centers, I rough the blank into a smooth walled cylinder.

2.) Then I remove the spur center, install my talon Chuck (with Spigot jaws installed).

3.) Next I install a 3 wheeled steady rest, hold one end of the blank in my talon chuck, bring up the tail rest and center it in the steady rest.



4.) Back off the tail rest, remove the live center, install my drill chuck.

5.) Drill hole to depth desired

6.) Remove the steady rest, talon chuck and re-install the spur center.

7.) Turn a tenon for the brass bushing / compression fitting and fit it on.

8.) If it's a hex head bushing, I use a special scraper I made to turn the profile flat and then sand it smooth.

9.) From there its a simple matter to turn the profile. Add some burned lines for a touch of "style" and sand smooth.

10.) Add a touch of 2 part epoxy in the drilled hole and insert your screw driver head.

11.) Let it dry overnight

12.) Apply finish (I like multiple coats of TruOil)