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Good luck
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titanxt said:
Corneel, great video! I love to see videos and pictures of fellow Woodnet members in their shops. I will sharpen up my blades again and set that chipbreaker as close as I possibly can and give that a try thins morning.
Thank you all!
Andy
It will take both - chipbreaker set very close AND very sharp blade. If either isn't right, you'll still get tearout. Frankly, you don't need a tight mouth if the first two criteria are met. And don't try to hog out thick shavings. Keep them wispy thin.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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Freshly sharpened blades, slight skew at times, very light shavings, and a card scraper saved the day... I will post some pictures on my "Hand Tool Cabinet Building and Planning" thread.
Thank you all!
Andy
I am quickly realizing that I have NO natural talent... But I am trying to fake it.
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titanxt said:
Freshly sharpened blades,...
Andy, What is your sharpening routine? What is your final honing grit?
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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"The ruler trick" that Charlesworth uses will get you a raised cutting angle quick and easy. The Veritas MKII has a really nice back bevel feature as well.
The ruler trick is also handy for getting into fresh iron on a pitted iron back without all the painstaking flattening to otherwise remove it.
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Kansas City Fireslayer said:
"The ruler trick" that Charlesworth uses will get you a raised cutting angle quick and easy. The Veritas MKII has a really nice back bevel feature as well.
The ruler trick is also handy for getting into fresh iron on a pitted iron back without all the painstaking flattening to otherwise remove it.
At best, the ruler trick might add 2 degrees to the effective cutting angle. For really gnarly woods, if you're going to attack it with cutting angle, I think you need a 55-62 degree cutting angle. That would be a pretty severe back bevel, requiring a pretty thick ruler.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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Currently, I am using a Worksharp 3000 and going up to 1500-grit. I finish by running the blade over a piece of MDF with the .5 micron green crayon from LV. If done correctly, I get hair-popping results.
Andy
I am quickly realizing that I have NO natural talent... But I am trying to fake it.
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Quote:
If done correctly, I get hair-popping results.
It's easy to pick out a woodworker when you shake his hand and notice a hair-less swath on his forearm.
~Dan.
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titanxt said:
Currently, I am using a Worksharp 3000 and going up to 1500-grit. I finish by running the blade over a piece of MDF with the .5 micron green crayon from LV. If done correctly, I get hair-popping results.
Andy
Assuming you're taking the wire burr off the backside of the blade, that's adequately sharp. The only other thing I would suggest is taking your chipbreaker and seeing if the angle where it mates with the blade is less than 30 deg. You want it to be pretty steep - like 50 deg. You really want that chipbreaker to turn the shaving almost to the point where it's being directed to the front of the plane.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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I should have said that I am using Hock blades and chip breakers.
Andy
I am quickly realizing that I have NO natural talent... But I am trying to fake it.
