Yet another failed item from Grizzly....................

[daveferg]

Wayne---from your's and Steve K's comments--sounds like the remotes might come from the same source.

But---you might want to re-think the title of your thread----it's not as though WN is overwhelmed by complaints about Griz'. To the contrary, many are very happy with their products.

Yes, Chinese electronics are junk! They act as though they never heard of UL standards for one thing. But a good point was made about using the plug interface at the wrong amps.

[YSU65]

daveferg said:

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Wayne---from your's and Steve K's comments--sounds like the remotes might come from the same source.

But---you might want to re-think the title of your thread----it's not as though WN is overwhelmed by complaints about Griz'. To the contrary, many are very happy with their products.

Yes, Chinese electronics are junk! They act as though they never heard of UL standards for one thing. But a good point was made about using the plug interface at the wrong amps.

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Things may have changes since I left the business 10+ years ago. Most components were qualified to IEEE standards, some to MIL standards. These were test like 1000 cycles of -55C to 125C, 1000 hrs 150C and HAST. Just about all components outside of some large flip chip microprocessor easily passed this. Assemblies, components on some type of card or film, are tested to lower stress levels.

The company ordering the assemblies specify the design and components. Assembly is pretty standard for electronic components, solder screen with no-clean flux, pick and place components, then through some type of oven. Assembly houses do not have different tools for different customers, they just adjust the pick and place tools.

The end customer is responsible for design, quality standards, and reliability objectives. If they require UL tests, then customer arranges for it.

So before we get anymore uneducated comments indicting a whole country for poor performance, do a little bit of homework first....Tom

[Phil Thien]

YSU65 said:

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The end customer is responsible for design, quality standards, and reliability objectives. If they require UL tests, then customer arranges for it.

So before we get anymore uneducated comments indicting a whole country for poor performance, do a little bit of homework first....Tom

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Much of the design work comes from Taiwanese design houses. They will take a product from concept to completion. And when business is slow, they design products on spec and shop completed projects to anyone that will listen.

[karoc]

If they sale it then it should work,regardless where its made or whoevers name is on it.Just common sense no degree needed

[Phil Thien]

karoc said:

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If they sale it then it should work,regardless where its made or whoevers name is on it.Just common sense no degree needed

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In a perfect world, every item sold would work.

It isn't a perfect world.

[ianab]

A lot of high end electronics comes out of China now (most Apple products for example). But they aren't exactly cheap.

Cheap AND Chinese? That's a bad combo. If you want to pay for the top quality components and decent QC, you can get that. But if you order from the lowest bidder? Well you know how that works out.

What sucks is buying something passed off as decent quality, when it's actually lowest bidder stuff...

[kurt18947]

fredhargis said:

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It's to review this thread and make one your self that will last a very long time as well as be a lot cheaper to buy. It might be easier to go the end, and then back up.

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Rolling my own is what I wound up doing. I know wireless is all the rages these days but I bought a good quality contactor and used a centrally located low voltage switch to control the contactor. I could have multiple start/stop stations but have a small shop and am within a half dozen steps of the D.C. switch from anywhere so no need. It's worked without batting an eye for 13 years and counting. If I wanted wireless I'd get an inexpensive wireless remote and use that to control the contactor. The wireless would be switching a small amount current instead of the whole load.

[Just_Dave]

Here is a twist. Are you absolutely sure that the remote is in fact the problem or is it possible that there is some sort of interference causing a problem? The following took me almost two years to figure out.

Case in point my Grizzly DC and my US made JDS air cleaner. When I built my shop my DC was the first thing installed. The remote operation was hit and miss. Some days it worked some it didn't. Given that the DC is in a separate room and that I knew at some point the remote would never work once the door went on I chalked it up to overseas quality and moved on.
Meanwhile I installed my JDS air cleaner. The remote sort of worked but it was very inconsistent. Even holding the remote 5 feet away pointing right at the IR sensor it would do what it wanted to do. I called JDS they sent out a new receiver and transmitter. Same problem.
One day I only had part of the lights on in the shop and happened to try the remote; the air cleaner came right on and I was able to select the speed and run time This lead to a bunch of expermention. Both remotes worked flawlessly with the lights off, neither worked reliably with the lights on.
The lights and the air cleaner are on different 120 circuits. DC is 240, none of this was making any sense. Lights are decent quality (read not box store) fixtures with electronic ballasts. My research indicated that this should not be a problem but it was. Ultimately I ended up installing X-10 filters on the lights. The air cleaner remotes works great. The DC IR remote won't shoot through a closed door but I really expected that so I built my own using commercial gate RF equipment.
My suggestion, before condemning the equipment try turning everything in your shop off except for your DC and see if anything changes.

[Ken Vick]

kurt18947 said:

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[blockquote]fredhargis said:

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It's to review this thread and make one your self that will last a very long time as well as be a lot cheaper to buy. It might be easier to go the end, and then back up.

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Rolling my own is what I wound up doing. I know wireless is all the rages these days but I bought a good quality contactor and used a centrally located low voltage switch to control the contactor. I could have multiple start/stop stations but have a small shop and am within a half dozen steps of the D.C. switch from anywhere so no need. It's worked without batting an eye for 13 years and counting. If I wanted wireless I'd get an inexpensive wireless remote and use that to control the contactor. The wireless would be switching a small amount current instead of the whole load.

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[/blockquote]

I second this. I don't understand why people fool around with the commercial switches. I can either turn the cyclone on by a knife blade (I think it is called) switch or with a pole light remote. A commercial contactor is likely to outlive all of us and if your pole light remote goes out you can get another from the box store for a few bucks. Ken

[Steve N]

Phil Thien said:

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You got that backwards, Taiwan is high-end compared to China.

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^^^^^^^^Absolutely this