Posts: 1,289
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Sadly, I had to cut down our 25 year old Dogwood tree yesterday. On a happier note, I saved several turning blanks from the 8-10" trunk. I haven't had good experience in saving freshly cut logs for future turning. What is the minimum amount of rough turning/hollowing I should do to minimize splitting as they dry? I don't want to do so much that it locks me into a particular shape before I really get started. I usually don't know how I want a turning to look until I actually start on it.
Posts: 866
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2009
Normal rule of thumb for rough turning is 10%. I'm not sure how you can rough turn it without deciding at least close to the final form.
I typically cut to length 4" (2" for each end) longer than the diameter then make sure the pith is removed. I then seal the endgrain well with normally two coats of anchorseal.
If the tree is green it probably has a lot of water to loose. At that size I think I would seal the end grain and about an inch down the cut face and place them in paper bags like a rough out.
If you get to them in the next few months you should have little loss before the rough turn as you decide what you want to make.
If you know you will want some for spindle work (boxes, stoppers, etc) you can go ahead and process some into smaller blanks which will help reduce cracking on those.
When you rough turn it I would coat the entire item with anchorseal. It will take longer to dry for final turning but it will be a lot safer.
Good luck with them.
I have three dogwoods on my property that were here when I build the home 35 years ago and I know none are over 3" in diameter now.
Posts: 1,289
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Thanks for the info. I'll have to get me some Anchorseal. Or, I assume, paraffin wax would also work.
I think you will have a few more years of waiting before you will have some usable dogwood turning blanks
Posts: 2,384
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Irving, Tx
"Or, I assume, paraffin wax would also work."
I used paraffin but it got so hot here the paraffin melted off. By the time I noticed, the checking was excessive.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
Posts: 1,792
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Jacksonville, NC
When hollowing if shoot for a uniform ¼” thickness don’t think will have any problem. Can turn, sand, & finish during one session. If have to leave it overnight or day or two store in plastic bag until can complete. Lot has to do with MC when you start rough turning. If below 20% MC might leave a hollow form little thicker during roughing out and set aside to air dry for couple days to week or two.
I end seal ASAP after processing logs to turning blanks unless going to tough turn immediately. After rough turning may or may not store in brown paper bag for awhile but never try sealing a rough turned bowl or hollow form. Live in an area where mold growth easy to come by so avoid plastic bags for long storage period (week or two).
Wood loses MC by evaporation due to air circulation, if using a wax emulsion (anchor seal) or paraffin wax you slow down or stop MC loss! My rough turnings unsealed get stacked on floor in the back of my shop until I am ready to turn them.
Bill
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
It's more about geometry than absolute measurement on a rough. Divide the movement into shoulder drop and cross-grain shrink on capacity bowls. Don't make steep sides or broad bottoms and you will be fine. I used a little bit less than a quart of anchorseal back when folks first started talking it up. Gave me mildew on maple when I coated outside endgrain, and didn't do much to stop radial checking in pieces of wood "saved" for later turning. I now give it my best style shot, based on what the wood will allow and how it appears. If I spend too much time looking to make the perfect piece, it's liable to crack. Like folks say, turn it to about 5/8 to 7/8 thickness on a ten-twelve inch piece with fairly regular grain. You'll have plenty to go back to circular, and a modest excess to restyle.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 1,415
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2010
Willyou said:
Thanks for the info. I'll have to get me some Anchorseal. Or, I assume, paraffin wax would also work.
I think you will have a few more years of waiting before you will have some usable dogwood turning blanks
A slow-cooker from Goodwill for $3 is awesome for melting & keeping wax in.
"I'm glad being trapped in the woods hunted by an insane militia made you ask the big life questions."
Check out my
Project Blog