L-Shaped Desk Design Help
#20
I tend to agree with KC, but it's been a long time since my first PCS and time changes the way the military reimburses.

On the desk, I recently built an L-shaped desk for my nearly unused bedroom and I built two drawer units on each end that the top sits on. It is built-in, but could easily be taken apart. The only thing holding the top on are Z-clips. The corner could have a 2" x 2" leg that holds it in place. The drawer units are not heavy (27" high by 18" wide - one with 4 drawers and one with 2 file drawers)

Joel
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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#21
Thanks for all of the advice. I made a few modifications based on suggestions and I decided to try panel boxes on the ends to help both assembly and sturdiness. I figured we could bolt the sides to the back using insert nuts and bolts.

Also, I included more support under the top itself to help with sagging over time. These will be just under the size of the apron and made from 6/4 stock.

My final question is the width of the apron. Right now we have it at 2 1/4 wide. I'm not thinking this may be a bit under sized to keep a 6' span top from sagging... any advice on this.

Thanks again!

Dark



A wise man once said, "All woodworkers make mistakes. A good woodworker can hide them."
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#22
I'm not sure of the dimensions or the materials you will be using. I think you should go here http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ and plug in that information. This should give you some idea of the amount of sag for the top. It will just be an idea as you will have two legs connected with no support under that connection.
I still think a light weight torsion box would be the best in this situation. Something along the lines of 1/2 inch plywood internals with 1/4 inch skins. It probably wouldn't weigh much more than the 3 2X material you have there but would give more strength.

Just my .02.

Bruce
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#23
In your second illustration here I see two cabinets joined at a seam on the right hand side of the picture. I think you're overlooking something.
I think that the white bars shown (the structural supports) should NOT conform to the boundary between one cabinet and another. I think the white bars should bypass the length of the cabinet to the right, and find themselves attached to the panel at the back of the kneespace on the other cabinet. The boundary between the two cabinets would then NOT be in one place, one "fault line" of vulnerability.
Think of it this way, "pushing down really hard at the seam, what needs to break for the construction to fail?" Answer: the seam.
If the white bars do not stop at the seam, the answer changes. "In order to destroy the cabinet, downward forces applied to the seam would have to destroy not only the seam at the top, but also three strong structural rails that bypass the seam. Their point of attachment is secure at the back panel of the kneespace on the one side, and along their full length under the counter surface of the right hand cabinet."
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#24
Dark,

I built a desk like you are planning about 15 years ago for my father, a full time author/writer. Posted pictures long ago but have lost them. I should be at their house next month and will try and remember to take new photo's then.

A couple of items:
My tops were all 1" thick white oak. The longer side was frame and panel, with QS white oak panels inset into the solid wood frame with walnut borders. It was based on a design in Woodsmith #79. The shorter side was just a glued up panel of 1" thick oak.

To join the two sides together I used these from Lee Valley.. One in front one in back. They butt the two tops together tightly and also align the horizontal surfaces perfectly.

My dad has had a PC monitor on the short L side with a slide out key board tray underneath the entire 15 years. I thought about the kind of stiffening support you have drawn but decided against it. There are no aprons ont he front like you've added There has been zero sagging of the top, none at all. Of course, he isn't sitting on the desk at the inside corner of the L.

Difference between mine and yours is there are drawer pedestals at each end of the L. These shorten the unsupported length, but it is still pretty roomy under there. I used Thomas Mosers Executive Desk in his Building Shaker Furniture book for a lot of inspiration for the one I built.




I also made this desk for my wife about ten years ago:


It also has a large opening for her feet under her tablet monitor, which has only gotten heavier since she upgraded and put a support arm under it. This top is a torsion box, I think it is 1/2" plywood top and bottom sandwiching 1" frame members. The top is four separate torsion boxes.

The right hand pedestal is the 30" full depth, as is the printer pedestal on the left the 24" depth. There isn't a rear apron, however past the chair you can see a bookcase underneath that supports the corner- and right-hand tops. I used a large angle bracket mounted to the wall at the joint underneath the corner- and left-hand top. Without a back apron there was nothing to support the tops. To join all the sections together I used these countertop joiners from Lee Valley. They worked really well. All the case construction here is plywood joined with biscuits. The cabinets are mostly my design but based on designs in this book.. This desk has had no sagging at all, either.

Not sure if any of this helps, but personally speaking a torsion box would work fine for that span. I also think with a 1" thick solid top you could manage that span without additional support if it is under 4 feet or so for the long leg and probably 3 feet for the short leg, that is roughly the unsupported part of my dads desk. His doesn't have that apron and it is fine. If your sons decides to store a collection of antique barbells on the inside corner it will eventually sag, but it is up to you if you want to design for that kind of intended use.

Mike
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#25
I'd go for a torsion box top. If he needs to move house a lot the reduced weight would be a benefit and the rigidity will be second to none. Bottom skin low cost ply, top one good quality hardwood surface ply with perhaps 1" or 1.5" separators.

If you go for solid, it will either sag or if thick enough, it will weigh a ton.
Cheers

Chataigner in PĂ©rigord-Limousin National Park
www.rue-darnet.fr
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#26
Hi,

I posted photos of my wifes desk higher in this thread. I visited my parents in NYC last week and was able to get a couple of photos of the other desk I mentioned.

I had my 14 year old take them as he had his iPad handy and I did not. A mistake considering how they turned out. Sorry for the poor quality but maybe it gets the point across anyway.

Construction is much like yours, however no extra bracing.

The short side of the L, the one with the monitor on it, is a glue up of 1" thick oak planks with breadboard ends.

The longer side of the L is a 1: thick frame and panel design. 1" thick oak frame with white oak panels set into it with a walnut banding around the panels.

I debated about putting extra support, opted not to. The desk has been in daily use for about 14 years...my father is a full time and near constant author and writer and as you can see has no qualms covering it with research.

I took a close look over the weekend and there isn't one bit of sagging on the joint of the L. None. The span may be shorter than yours given the pedestals at the sides. The pedestal on the right was built to hold a printer and (back in the day) a fax machine. It has a pocket door that I do not think has ever been closed to hide the equipment.

I shared the connecting hardware upthread. It has worked great - the desk has been moved twice to new apartments since it was built.

Just another option to consider. Solid oak is heavy, though.

Mike

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#27
Hi all - I want to thank everyone for all of the info, tips, and experience that you shared. Sorry for not interacting on here much over the past month (been really busy), but I have been reading and taking notes from all of the help.


We were able to finish his desk and I'll be delivering it to his apartment next week just in time for the start of the semester. He was very excited to get it finished and pleased with the results. I think the biggest take away was his satisfaction of having an idea, designing it himself, and making that idea a reality. This is the second project we worked on together (you'll notice a gun cabinet in one of the pics below which I helped him build for his high school senior project) but this one I think might have hooked him as a future woodworker.

Here are some pics during different stages of the build (he actually took progress pics of every stage to post on his Facebook) and the final product.

Thanks again for all of help!

Dark

Here is the final dry fit before we put the finish on.


All of the parts laid out for finishing. The desk will disassemble to this level for moving. We used threaded inserts and hex bolts with metal corner brackets to hold everything together.



Front view



Corner view


Back quarter


View from the pilot's seat


The builders


And the budding woodworker at the wheel of the table saw
A wise man once said, "All woodworkers make mistakes. A good woodworker can hide them."
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#28
That is a beautiful desk! Great job.
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