Minwax poly over latex semi-gloss enamel ?

[Ohio Mike]

Wife wants me to build a child's book shelf as a baby shower gift. I've had bad luck with latex semi-gloss enamel on shelves. It never really dries 100% so books that remain in place for a few weeks can get stuck, even with good quality primer and paint that has dried for 6 months. I believe the pros call this problem "blocking".



I'm looking for a reasonably priced way to put a durable colored finish on this project. I do not own spray equipment.

I'm wondering if applying Minwax poly over latex paint would do the trick?

[JR1]

Most "latex" paints are designed to be cheap and easy to apply to things like walls and not have stuff sit on them. Under relatively low pressure—e.g. books siting on them—they will flex and flow. Putting another coating of whatever type on top will not mitigate this problem. You need to remove the latex and put a good finish on. You may want to put a good color on and follow with a clear durable topcoat.

[jteneyck]

I've had no problems with SW Pro Classic waterborne acrylic enamel on a built in cabinet I made that we store lots of china in. It can be tinted any color you want.

John

[Howard Acheson]

Go to a real paint store and ask for a non-blocking waterborne enamel.

For what you want to do, I would just buy a rattle can of spray paint. Use a Rustoleum or Krylon.

Test the paint on scrap.

[Cooler]

I like Minwax oil based poly over flat latex. The flat latex dries very fast and has good tooth for the poly. Remember that the finish will be a bit warmer with the poly overcoat. Very, very durable.

This is a table top I made of two layers of 3/4" MDF. The edges were treated and covered with One Shot gold (nice stuff). The top was a latex flat finish rollered on with a short nap roller. I top coated with 3 coats of Minwax Poly. It is a lightly used table otherwise I would have gone with 4 coats. I use just 2 coats for vertical surfaces and 3 or 4 coats for horizontal surfaces.

[Ohio Mike]

Thanks for the good information everyone. All very good ideas.



Mike

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Use a waterborne alkyd enamel from the get go and you shouldn't need to topcoat with a clear finish for most applications. Ben Moore Advance and SW Pro Classic are both excellent choices. I used the Pro Classic two days ago through the Earlex 5500 and I was quite impressed. I'm happy with either or but the Advance is cheaper for me. Using a "wall paint" on a wood project is a recipe for disaster. You need a hard enamel when dried and cured. Nothing worse then solid wood doors or cabinets that have layer upon layer of a latex wall paint all over it.

[Cooler]

Kansas City Fireslayer said:

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Use a waterborne alkyd enamel from the get go and you shouldn't need to topcoat with a clear finish for most applications. Ben Moore Advance and SW Pro Classic are both excellent choices. I used the Pro Classic two days ago through the Earlex 5500 and I was quite impressed. I'm happy with either or but the Advance is cheaper for me. Using a "wall paint" on a wood project is a recipe for disaster. You need a hard enamel when dried and cured. Nothing worse then solid wood doors or cabinets that have layer upon layer of a latex wall paint all over it.

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Flat latex dries thoroughly very quickly. It makes a fine color coat under poly.

Poly is much more durable than acrylic enamel.

There are many articles on this, most relating to the auto industry which uses top coats over color almost exclusively nowadays.

See: http://www.ehow.com/info_7931658_urethan...paint.html