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Just picked up a used Supernova 2 chuck with one set of jaws. My only previous turning was with dry wood making spindles and knobs so wet wood turning for bowls is all new to me.
I was surprised that the jaws left a stain on the base of the bowl. Is that because the wood was wet or will they stain dry wood too? I had a PSI Barracuda before and had no issues with dry wood. Here's the base of the bowl and the chuck.
Here's a couple more of my first ever bowl. It's red oak, rough turned then microwaved, then finish turned. Coated with Bush Oil. The bowl warped so much after the micro that I couldn't get the jaws into the recess so I used a jamb chuck and held it in place with the live center. Had the bottom about 1/8" thick so ended up with a hole thru the center. So it goes.
This was attached to the chuck when I bought it!
g
I've only had one...in dog beers.
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The Eagles: Already Gone
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There is a stain that is used to turn oak black that is made by putting some iron nails in a solution (vinegar??) and letting it sit for a while. The solution is then applied to the oak and it turns black.
Perhaps there was a film residue on the jaws that triggered the blackening reaction.
If you clean the jaws with a good solvent, I would expect this to be a one time thing.
Also, congratulations on the new chuck accessory.
I very much like the shape of the bowl. I would suggest putting it on a display shelf for now. When you get a bit more experience, I would suggest making a pedestal post and a smaller diameter bowl or plate to top it. You might have to do an in-fill of the original mortise in order to get enough structural support for the tenon on the pedestal post. If you do the in-fill with the same contrasting wood that you use for the post, it would tie everything together. You do want this bowl to be absolutely air dried for your local area prior to doing the in-fill, though.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
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WOW! That chuck came with a nice accessory!
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Just use some lemon juice with a Q tip and it will come off.
When steel comes in contact with Oak or sometimes with Black Walnut it will do that if it is wet.
You did a great job on your first bowl buddy.
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Metal + moisture on wood = rust/oxidation staining. If you get to it right off the lathe, it takes seconds for the lemon juice to remove it. If you let it sit for a week or 4, then you may need to apply a couple of times. I keep a squeeze plastic lemon by the lathe. I just squirt some out, push it around with my finger, and wipe it off after the black is gone. Q tip is too dainty for me. I have had the lemon juice bleach some streaks in some woods, so be careful about drops and spills on the wood.
robo hippy
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Another solution is to shellac the nose of the tenon or the bottom of the mortise. Some use tape and trim. Saran wrap was more trouble than it was worth to me, though that's another suggestion often made.
Doesn't take oak or walnut, just, as he says - wet wood.
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I never leave the chuck hold on the bottoms of my bowls so any staining gets turned away.
Twinn
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Thanks guys. I tried lemon juice and it removed most of the stains, scraped off the rest. It makes sense that steel against wet wood will cause a reaction.
Thanks again,
g
I've only had one...in dog beers.
"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
Posts: 1,617
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Coast of Maine
I've only had one...in dog beers.
"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
Posts: 14,849
Threads: 10
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: southeastern VA
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.