Restoring an Old Electrical Motor

[skizzo]

Bumping this to keep it current with the other thread that just resurfaced.

[Jonny Rocket]

skizzo said:

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Bumping this to keep it current with the other thread that just resurfaced.

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I suppose I will need a motor eventually too, but they tend to show up uninvited anyway.

[Stwood_]

K. L, McReynolds said:

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There is another way to get bearings out of a dead end housing. It might not be the optimum way for old cast iron, however.

Find/make a flat ended rod just smaller than the inside diameter of the bearing. I've made them on a DP with round mild steel rod and a file.

Pack heavy grease(with a dose of WD-40(etc) first into the dead end housing. Place the punch in the bearing bore and hit it with a hammer.

I did blow out the housing on one old motor I was using for practice, but that was more a problem with support while hammering. (I think). And I was seeing how hard I should hit the punch--had a 5 pound maul)

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+1


Sweet thread skizzo. Well done

[skizzo]

Jonny Rocket said:

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I suppose I will need a motor eventually too, but they tend to show up uninvited anyway.

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I just did another one of these motors for the benchtop for sale down in SnS. They're nice, but they're also a real pain to work on compared to others. WT and their proprietary bearings are a PITA.

[Buckaroo]

and a bump for this one too.
Too much good info.

[Arlin Eastman]

skizzo said:

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[blockquote]Jonny Rocket said:

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Note: I wasn't trying to save that bearing. I pried the shield off and pulled it out.

Bill, I think those screws might be grease points? Are the bearings open on the sides facing the screws?

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Nice, Jonny. I wasn't trying to save the bearing either, and was just a couple minutes away from pulling out the Dremel and cutting my way through the bearing. I didn't think of removing the shield, but I don't think I'd have been able to just pull the bearing out anyways because of how adhered it was. I'm still working to clean up the inside of those castings. Nasty.

The bearings are shielded on both sides, and the well is hollow behind the bearing. They're certainly not for grease or oil. The bearing in the blind well sits against a shoulder in the back, so there's no reason for the screw to be a stop... I guess it must be a little safety precaution against the bearing outer race spinning in the retainer.

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[/blockquote]


I just watch a guy do a motor at his house that looks very much like yours, however, his did have the grease points. So I am thinking that they might have a lot of motor housings with different kinds of bearings so some had grease points others had screws to fill the holes.

Arlin

[skizzo]

Bump to try and find this in the Power Tools index.

[Mattwyers]

This appears to be the same motor I am working on now except mine is labeled Atlas Press Company. It is 1/2 HP, 110/220v, 60 cycles, 1725 rpm, 1 phase, 8/4 amps. The difficulty I'm having is that on my motor, the capacitor is shot. It's leaking oil, the case is damaged, and it's unreadable. What I wanted to knows is, do any of your pictures show the markings on the capacitor clearly. I'm trying to find a replacement capacitor and need to know the mfd values. Thanks.

[Mattwyers]

Actually I think I can read most of the numbers on yours. It looks like a Mallory starting capacitor, CAP MFD 341-412. I think that's enough to get me started.

[Stwood_]

Welcome Matt