Some Basic Picture Frame Questions

[David Stone]

This weekend I turned on the table saw for the first time all year.

I picked up four photos, 14 x 11 each, already matted with foam backing. I started to make pretty basic frames from 3/4 walnut, they'll end up about 17 x 14.

For the picture glass -- I see places selling 1/8" thick or 2 mm. Is thicker necessarily better? Does it matter?

If the thickness of the mat/photo/foam is a little less than 1/4, and I use a 1/8 piece of glass, do I make my rabbit about 1/2" deep?

Simple framers points to hold everything in the frame?

Do people like use a keyhole bit to cut a slot for hanging? Or just buy tack-on hangers?

Thanks in advance.

[Scoony]

I may be mistaken but single pane is 1/16" thick Thats what i use.

[K. L. McReynolds]

1/16" thick glass is fine(window pane).

I use picture framing wire and tiny eye screws. I predrill the holes with a brad (cut off head first) chucked in a drill.

That way I do not have to hammer on the hangers. That also means I do not have to exactly center a hole---making the picture difficult to hang plumb.

Screw in the eye screws cut a wire about 2" longer that the span, thread the wire into the eyes and wrap the ends around the wire.

Hobby stores have eye screws and wire---the wire is sized by the weight it can handle.

I have a framer point tool, but would rather use screw mounted turn buttons.

[barryvabeach]

David, I go with regular glass, IIRC 1/16, don't know why you would want to go thicker. I have made them like conventional frames, with a turn button to hold in place, but most recently I made a number of frames with the rabbit deep enough for the glass, the mat and the backing, then another 3/8 inch, and then cut strips that are just over 1/4" wide by the same thickness, put everything in the frame, then the strips, and use a 23 gauge micro pinner to pin the strips in place. Since there is no glue, it is reversible, and it goes much quicker than other methods.

[Big Dave]

When the need arises, I order "picture frame glass". I believe it's about 1/16".

The rabbet depth should be deep enough that everything sitting in it is below the top edge. Glass, mat, picture, backing and whatever you use to secure it in place.

I use keyhole slots on my frames because I like that the frames sit completely against the wall when hanging - a much cleaner look. It also allows for infinite adjustments to keep it level, whereas some of the hangers are notched - making adjustments almost impossible.

Two pennies worth...

Dave

[MichaelMouse]

Take a look at this type stuff at a local framing place before you decide. Expensive, but, in my opinion, worth the difference.
http://www.plaskolite.com/Options/Perfor...Anti-Glare

I like tack-on hangers, or eyes and wire, and secure with brads. Don't forget to seal the back to keep dust from getting in.

[gator]

Depending on location of the picture, you might consider ordering 'non-glare' glass. For the small additional cost I use it on all pictures. It makes a big difference on the appearance of the picture as well as being able to see it in any light/glare conditions.

Gator

[David Stone]

Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

[Chataigner]

gator said:

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Depending on location of the picture, you might consider ordering 'non-glare' glass. For the small additional cost I use it on all pictures. It makes a big difference on the appearance of the picture as well as being able to see it in any light/glare conditions.

Gator

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+1. It makes a big difference. Note also someone's earlier coment about sealing the back with tape. Dust always seems to get in otherwise.

[gator]

I glue brown paper (grocery bag) around the back of the frame, moisten it lightly and dry with a hair dryer. the paper stretches tight and keeps out dust and looks almost professional.

gator