What is life like without a powered jointer?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I don't have a jointer, and I've used that as an excuse for not starting any new projects. Last night I decided to try my hand at hand flattening to see if I can make it without one--I have a garage shop, and space is a premium. I don't even have a workbench because of this. All of my tools are on wheels, and my TS is my assembly surface.

I have a Powermatic 100 12" planer, so I have no plans on thicknessing by hand.

I have six hand planes of various lengths and used my longest one last night to flatten four 55" cherry planks, 8-10" wide. It took a LOT longer than using a jointer (of course), and my shoulders are a bit sore from lack of practice, but it was satisfying to see fairly smooth surfaces from a first attempt.

I have no problem (I think) with spending a few hours on each project hand flattening, if (and it's a big if) it is reasonable to expect to be able to face one side and then run it through a planer for thicknessing.

Here's the jointer I used and my hack set up on my TS. It isn't the best, but it's what I got!



I do have a line on an early 1900's 12" jointer that's only 60" long, and on casters, could work in my shop, if this doesn't work out.

Any advice or thoughts? I know I'm gonna get some biased answers here, being the hand tool section, but I figured I'd come to the masters!

[TomFromStLouis]

I started my first few years without a power jointer. It is easier than you are envisioning. You do not need to flatten the entire face but simply take down the high spots so the board will not rock in a planer pass. This usually meant just knocking down two corners. Once the other face has been through the planer you flip the board and let the planer finish your hand started face. This is coarser hand planing done with you #5 or similar. You need to be more careful edge jointing by hand although your Table saw is good for assuring 90 degree edges.

I worked this way for years, but I am happy to have a power jointer now.

[Wilbur Pan]

Flattening one side of a board by hand and then running it through a planer is a perfectly good way to mill lumber. In fact, you don’t even have to perfectly flatten the board. Just flatten it enough so that you’ve gotten rid of any twist and that it doesn’t rock on the planer bed, use the planer for the opposite face, then flip the board over to clean up the first face. You’ll still want to plane out the milling marks, but that’s going to be a lot easier than doing it all by hand.

One other thing to think about, in case you have a tool fund handy: if you are thinking about getting a 12” jointer, consider selling your planer and getting a 12” jointer/planer combo machine. They have jointer beds that are about 55-60” long, and you’ll save on space while having access to both machines.

I understand the appeal of old iron. I have a 1940’s 16” Walker-Turner bandsaw that I will give up only when I die. But I do think that a good jointer/planer combo is at least as good if not better than the older jointers and planers.

[GeorgeV]

Brad, I gave away my 6" jointer a couple of years ago to a fellow WoodNetter and haven't missed it at all.

I have a nice selection of hand planes and a 12" planer and between both, I feel no need for a jointer.

The shop has more room and I have NO REGRETS!

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Thanks, gents.

If I go with that 12" jointer it would be because it's dirt cheap (for its size) and, yes, I love the old iron.

But if I can get away with face jointing by hand--looks like it's easier than what I did last night--I'll stick with no jointer. For now.

Thanks a bunch.

[Strokes77]

Search "Renaissance Woodworker" on youtube, and he shows a video where he does exactly what you're talking about. Hybrid milling using hand planes and a planer... He demonstrates taking the rocking out of a board, then power planing both sides.

[Admiral]

As Tom mentioned, you are better off starting with a #5 if you don't have a scrub, and camber the extra iron so you can hog off the wood quicker, then move to a straight iron in the #5, then to a #6 or #7 to finish up. Its quicker that way than using a #7 for the entire job as the sole registration of the smaller #5 allows for more aggressive planing of the high spots, and once they are gone, the longer soled fore or jointer finishes up nicely. I have a "cosmetically challenged" (read no japanning left) #5 dedicated to scrub like work so I don't have to switch irons.

While I wouldn't give up my jointer, you really don't need one for prepping stock for a planer.

[Bill Wilson]

I'm not a hand tool guy, am far from a master anything, and I don't own a jointer. I've always flattened stock with shims, belt sander or a hand plane, just enough to take the rocking out of it before sending it through the planer. Has worked fine for me for many years.

[JustinTyson]

I haven't had a jointer in 7 years. I can't say I don't miss it at all, but I certainly don't miss the noise, the mess, and the maintenance.

Like the others have said, there's no need to get a board completely flat, just knock down the high spots. I typically shoot for a slight hollow in the middle, then use winding sticks to ensure that there's no twist, before running through the planer. It's pretty quick and painless, except on very long or very warped boards.

And of course, if you have a board wider than your jointer, well, you were going to have to flatten it by hand anyway...

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I guess it's time to learn which of my planes those numbers attach to.

I might just post a picture and ask for help.