What is life like without a powered jointer?

[Scott W]

Lynford, NICE WORK!!!!

[Anji12305]

Backwards, by my training.

Cup side up, that way the plane is always in contact with two points.
If you flatten the convex (curved outward at the middle) side, you have one point of contact, and could end up with another curved face.

I was taught to wedge with shims or "pack" with shavings under the unsupported curved side to keep it from rocking.

Two points describe a line.

[Anji12305]

" I enjoyed the work, lack of noise, and the results are every bit as good as had I used the machines. "

The point of this approach, in a nutshell.
Ditto

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Anji12305 said:

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Backwards, by my training.

Cup side up, that way the plane is always in contact with two points.
If you flatten the convex (curved outward at the middle) side, you have one point of contact, and could end up with another curved face.

I was taught to wedge with shims or "pack" with shavings under the unsupported curved side to keep it from rocking.

Two points describe a line.

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Thanks. I'll try that on the next boards.

[Danny in Houston]

Anji12305 said:

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" I enjoyed the work, lack of noise, and the results are every bit as good as had I used the machines. "

The point of this approach, in a nutshell.
Ditto

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This, and I can occupy a portion of a three-car garage without getting sawdust everywhere.

[AHill]

Good point. Thanks for clarifying.

ZachDillinger said:

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To clarify, the side you flatten is not always the show side. You flatten the side that matters most for your joinery. The show side can be wavy and unflat as long as it doesn't look wavy and flat, and you remember to only measure from the side you flattened. Two reference faces on every board with joinery, usually no more, certainly no less.

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[jonas b]

I don't have a powered jointer, or a powered planer for that matter. Life is fine, until you have to make an 8 foot long table with wood that is rough sawn! In that case, life is better if you have a friend with a powered jointer and planer, which was the case with me, although it's not fun having to lug long boards out of the shop into the car and into a friends shop.

I just don't have the space for a powered jointer. I may get a lunch box planer in the future, but it's not necessary yet.

I will say this, in my mostly hand tool shop, I cannot and would not live without a bandsaw.

[Rob Young]

ZachDillinger said:

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To clarify, the side you flatten is not always the show side. You flatten the side that matters most for your joinery. The show side can be wavy and unflat as long as it doesn't look wavy and flat, and you remember to only measure from the side you flattened. Two reference faces on every board with joinery, usually no more, certainly no less.

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This! Speeds things up when working by hand because you don't necessarily need to 4-square (6-square if you count the ends) the board. Do just enough for the joinery to work and the show face to look pretty.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I gave the #5 a try tonight. It has a blade that's thicker than the others. I rounded the corners, polished the back, and put a passable edge on it.

It does plane more easily then the #7, but it wouldn't hold a setting at all. Every dozen or so strokes and I'd have to loosen the cap and push the blade back down.

It was frustrating, but doable.

I planed the pieces cup up and found it easier--I planed until the flats on the sides covered about 70% of the surface. The center was a bit low, but light cuts on the planer won't press it flat.

I like hand planing.

[Bruce Haugen]

If'n you want to extend the usefulness of your tailed planer, Google "planer sled."