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I want to stabilize some knots on the recycled walnut. I have west systems epoxy and want to dye it. I think I still have some of the powder dye. Can I use that? Do I need to dilute in water first or use the powder directly? Would the liquid transtint be better? If so, any dilution necessary?
Also one of the knots is completely hollow. ie 1" hole in it. Does it look better if I put a chuck of walnut in it and then epoxy? Or use some other kind of filler?
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Epoxy isn't soluble in water, diluting your colorant in water would be a very bad idea. Also, many of the dyes sold are alcohol soluble, which also doesn't work well with epoxy.
The best colorant for epoxy is a product call Mixol. These are small containers of concentrated oil based dyes ($6/bottle) that work very well with epoxy. Oil based artist pigments will also work; both can be found at most artist supply shops.
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Transtint works great in the epoxies I've used to fill knot holes and cracks. It only takes a drop or two. Use a dye that's lighter than you think because it's so concentrated it will be darker than you expect. Sorry, no idea whether it's a good idea to put some wood in the hole first; I've never filled a hole quite that large. My guess is that partially filling the hole would be OK, and save some epoxy. Try it on some scrap to see.
John
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Transtint works great for the color. All I can say, as I know there are other options, but I haven't tried them.
As for filling The knots, the West System works great, but you need to thicken it with one their fillers. I have been using #406 with great success. You can just add the filler to be as thick as you need it: from catsup to mayonnaise to peanut butter (their description). 1" is a big hole to fill, and I would definitely stick something in to help fill it...the original knot would be good if you still have it.
Bob
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Thanks all. I'll grab some transit tomorrow. No need to dilute it?
Unfortunately I don't have the original fill of the knot. I'll try and find the darkest piece and use that.
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Personally I usually just use the epoxy with no tint at all, although on occasion I have mixed in sanding dust from whatever wood I'm using, don't like it too much, and I have used dowels in smaller holes, seems ok.
But by far my preference is just the epoxy.
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I filled a large void using famowood from lowes (it's an epoxy). Put duct tape on the bottom. Put a thin layer say 1/8 to 1/4. The spray painted flat black on the epoxy. Then continued to fill in layers till done. Made sure to hit it with hair dryer to eliminate bubbles. You can remove the tape anytime after the first layer dries
Should work fine for your knot. Just gave to have patience. Mix well. Each layer is needs about 5 hours
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I've mixed black powdered Homestead dye into 5-minute epoxy to fill knot holes. You really don't need that much. Works great.
To make cleanup easier, I encircle the area with painter's tape then spread the epoxy into the hole. The epoxy that dries on the tape is much easier to peel off/break off than if it comes in contact with the bare wood. I'll use a wide chisel bevel down to make it flush to the surface.
Paul
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jussi said:
Thanks all. I'll grab some transit tomorrow. No need to dilute it?
Unfortunately I don't have the original fill of the knot. I'll try and find the darkest piece and use that.
I always add the dye straight to the mixed epoxy, then mix it again. If you wanted a lighter shade I suppose you could dilute the dye in whatever solvent is compatible with both Transtint and epoxy but none comes to mind unless epoxy is soluble in lacquer thinner or acetone. Transtint is soluble only in water, alcohol, lacquer thinner and acetone, AFAIK. I guess that would be an argument for using another approach, like Mixol or powdered pigments, to color the epoxy.
John
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there are also the alumilite dyes they might works since they work so well in the casting resin.
http://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1012-Al...e-Dye.aspx
