1960s Uni vs Ridgid R4512

[Jason/Woody]

Let me start by saying that I don't know much about Unisaws other than I have used a few from time to time. I currently have a rinky dink Skil table saw they sell at Lowes for like $140 (I bartered for mine in like new condition). Anyhow, I am set up to win my fantasy football championship (2nd year in a row!) and with that will come a $500 profit in winnings. Since I now have a garage and can afford to give up some space for a good saw, I am looking to do so.

Last year, I went to an auction at a local high school. I bought a 1960s 16" Rockwell bandsaw (I have no room for that) and a 1960s Unisaw. I sold them both to my boss for what I paid for them because we were going to set up a wood shop in some spare space at work. We're no longer going to do that and I'm in the market for a saw so I talked to him about buying it back at cost. I'm looking for some advice on which would be better and what I should really look at to determine if the Uni is the way to go vs a new hybrid saw instead.

Pros

Uni:

- Very large Biesemeyer fence (52"?) that needs one face of the fence replaced (no big deal)
- Old Iron
- Probably a much more valuable saw
- Price ($260 plus any maintenance)
- Has a very nice, large (6"x 8") kill switch engaged with knee.

Ridgid:

- New product (should be no issues)
- Comes with mobile base (I'll need for my use)
- Parts should be readily available
- Comes with riving knife
- Dust collection built in


Cons


Uni:

- Came from HS wood shop so who knows the usage/care
- Would need to purchase mobile base ($50+)
- Possible damage to trunion or other?
- Refurb needed on CI (just my labor so nothing major there)
- Fence needs some repairs
- No riving knife
- No dust collection

Ridgid:

- Price ($530 + tax)
- Probably not the same build quality as Unisaw


I've done some research on the Ridgid and it seems like a pretty good saw overall, especially for the price. I don't have the information on the Unisaw right now because it's at work, but I can get it on Monday if that would help to determine anything. Does anyone have any advice on what to look for on the saw? It's wired for 220 but we haven't even plugged it in yet. It's just been sitting in an empty warehouse for a year and a half or so.

The fence looks like this one here but obviously the saw is much older.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rUGHdXlb4M

The white wing on the right side is no good on the Uni either, but I can replace that stuff pretty easily.

The repair I need to do on the fence is the melamine face. It has started to delaminate but that shouldn't be too hard to fix.

[Bob Vaughan]

With the Unisaw, you can build yourself a $3000.00 saw for $350.00. With the shiny cheap saw, you're getting an Asian-made contractor type saw at retail. If restoring the Unisaw is too daunting, let it go to someone that knows the value difference.

[JGrout]

The uni is being used presently correct?

if it runs and does not sound like sand grinding out of the bearings, buy it back

Joe

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

That's a no brainer as long as the trunnions are fine and there's no damage to anything major on the Unisaw. The Unisaw is a lifetime saw that will outlast you. The Ridgid is a toy in comparison to an older Unisaw. Not to ruffle anyone's feathers with that statement....But I would be prepared to do new arbor bearings if needed. Not a deal breaker by any means. I try to avoid the new age machines as much as possible given their high cost in comparison to older USA made tools. To each their own. Let us know what you decide and some pictures of the Unisaw would be nice.

[Jason/Woody]

Bob Vaughan said:

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If restoring the Unisaw is too daunting, let it go to someone that knows the value difference.

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I wouldn't say it would be too daunting by any means...I just have no experience in them and have only ever had cheap direct drive saws to work with (other than using a saw in someone else's shop). I know there is a value difference in the machines and that the fence alone on this is worth half the price of the other saw. What I was asking for is what to look for so that I could determine if there WAS anything wrong with the saw so that I know what I'm looking at as far as if any potentially required parts are available for purchase. I didn't want to commit to buying something back only to find out I may have to find a part out of another machine somewhere down the line because I can't find it online or something, KWIM?

JGrout said:

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The uni is being used presently correct?

if it runs and does not sound like sand grinding out of the bearings, buy it back

Joe

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Incorrect. I've never seen it run and it's merely been transported from one site to it's current location and has sat since. I was told that it ran when I was at the auction, but that doesn't mean everything runs 100%

Kansas City Fireslayer said:

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That's a no brainer as long as the trunnions are fine and there's no damage to anything major on the Unisaw. The Unisaw is a lifetime saw that will outlast you.

Yeah that's the part I know I've read about...the trunnions. Can I check them without too much (or any) disassembly? What am I looking for in terms of damage on them?

But I would be prepared to do new arbor bearings if needed.

That would be no problem.

Let us know what you decide and some pictures of the Unisaw would be nice.

I'll snap some pictures on Monday when I go back to work. The top is rough (rusted) but it can be brought back to life with some elbow grease. It wasn't bad when I picked it up so I know it's not too far gone.

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[JGrout]

Quote:

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I've never seen it run and it's merely been transported from one site to it's current location and has sat since. I was told that it ran when I was at the auction, but that doesn't mean everything runs 100%

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that can be rectified by plugging it in..

And it will either be 100% or 0% if you do.

[Jason/Woody]

Yeah it was just discussed to purchase it back today about 20 minutes before I had to leave for the day. I figured I'd jump start a conversation on here so that I had some information to go off of for Monday when I can take a close look at it again.

[DieselDennis]

JGrout said:

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[blockquote]Quote:

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I've never seen it run and it's merely been transported from one site to it's current location and has sat since. I was told that it ran when I was at the auction, but that doesn't mean everything runs 100%

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that can be rectified by plugging it in..

And it will either be 100% or 0% if you do.

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[/blockquote]

For real, find a cord, find a plug, and find an outlet.

I'd buy the Uni anyway. I mean your boss bought the saw without it running, right?

The two saws are not even in the same class. This is not even a valid comparison.

Do you ever think you will need to transport the saw and use it on site? If not, buy the Uni.

[Slupie]

I did the same about 8-10 years ago.

First mistake - bought a Jet contractor saw, luckily it was on clearance and I sold it for the same amount as I paid for it.

Second mistake - made an upgrade to Delta contractor saw with cast iron top, dust collection was terrible with the motor sticking out the back. Sold it for the same amount as I paid for it

Last & final upgrade is my 1986 PM66. Put in some money and time to clean it, repaint it, replace the 5hp 3 phase motor with single phase motor and weld a custom mobile base for it. I spend about $700-800 on it total and could not be happier.

Good luck with you decision but if it was me I would be buying the Unisaw and not even considering the China made table saw. Everything is replaceable on the old USA made machines, and they are build to last.

[JGrout]

The worst case has been discussed The arbor bearings may need replaced.

one should determine if it is three phase or single phase and the voltage which can be 110V (single phase) or 220 (single or three phase)

Obviously if you have single phase in your shop you need a converter if it is three phase. That you have to figure out ( hint: four wires going to the plug)

If it is single phase it may have potential start issues in either 110 or 220 more likely with 110V ( It will hum but not spin the blade) On 220 it is less likely as that old a saw most likely has a LVC start circuit