Posts: 5
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2004
I have an 20 x 20 detached, stick built shop with some insulation that I use year round. Outside temperatures during working time usually above 35 degrees. I'm trying to get away from propane heat but options seem a bit slim. Wood burning stove is not an option. Any thoughts?
Posts: 4,911
Threads: 3
Joined: Apr 2009
I am in upstate NY and my shop is 20 X 30. I use 2 of the little ceramic heaters and they keep my shop in the mid 50's. They do not run all the time. I did insulate the walls and ceiling pretty well and I'm sure that helps.
Currently a smarta$$ but hoping to one day graduate to wisea$$
Posts: 5,184
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2014
Location: Santa Maria, Ca
First line of defense, cheapest to do and longest lasting is more and better insulation. The one thing that is always a benefit, heating or cooling.
What is your location? Once you get the insulation/weatherstripping installed, the heat comes down to gas or electric if wood is no option.
Electric is obviously the easiest. Plug in and done. More expensive usually. Depends on your local costs.
Gas will usually require venting, etc, depending on local codes and the equipment you get/have. Cheaper to heat, more expensive to install.
My climate is such that simply insulating made a huge difference. My shop is the same size as yours. Basically a 20 by 20 square, 400 square feet. Before I had the sheetrock installed last fall, it was fully insulated. Also put a layer of "attic foil" in the roof rafters. Made a huge difference in the radiant heat in the summer that would BAKE the top of my head and drive me out of the shop. Got to figure it will keep the attic cooler/warmer now that the insulation is in place.
Mark Singleton
Bene vivendo est optimum vindictae
The Laws of Physics do not care about your Politics - Me
Posts: 999
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2001
Location: South West Pa.
Here in Pa. one building is 40 x 20 with zero insulation and temps much colder than what you mention. My torpedo type space heater does a great job with a thermostat and 155,000 btu with diesel or kero.
Bill
Posts: 2,115
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2005
I have a 26 x 30 with 10" ceilings. I got mobile home furnace and use propane. I insulated everything to R!(. When It was -14F, the shop got to 35F. When I am out there, I will run the furnace until the place heats up to 55F then shut the furnace off. Good for several hours if I am physical. If I have just put finish on something, I will run it up to 65 or 70. Big thing is insulation, pay more upfront, save money later. Good luck, Tom
Posts: 2,115
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2005
YSU65 said:
I have a 26 x 30 with 10" ceilings. I got mobile home furnace and use propane. I insulated everything to R!(. When It was -14F, the shop got to 35F. When I am out there, I will run the furnace until the place heats up to 55F then shut the furnace off. Good for several hours if I am physical. If I have just put finish on something, I will run it up to 65 or 70. Big thing is insulation, pay more upfront, save money later. Good luck, Tom
Uhhh, 10' ceilings. Wait, maybe that is why things don't fit after I cut them...
Posts: 8,963
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2010
You don't give a location. One option o get more from your propane is to go to radiant heat—that is the black tubes in the ceiling—They are very efficient, but heat the entire shop. An alternate is to use electric or propane radiant spot heaters to bring up the temperature where you are working and an electric or propane heat to keep the shop above freezing. e.g. <a href="http://" >Quartz Overhead Radiant Heater</a> . Whether or not to use propane or electric is a matter of availability and cost.
I agree that insulation is the first and most important line of defense. You don't say where you are but heating/cooling using the temperature of ground water can be a big help. We put in geothermal heating in Va using a heat pump and ground water heat exchanger. An alternative might be solar. The most efficient use is to put heat in the floor but likely that boat has left. However; baseboard heat can work well.
homo homini lupus
"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Quodcumque potest manus tua facere instaner opere Ecclesiastes
Posts: 12,605
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
Can I ask what your objections are to LP?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 508
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2006
I bought the Heavy Duty Profusion 7700w heater when Menards had an 11% rebate sale. I put it on a throw switch so I only run it when I am in my 3 car garage shop. It is insulated and I hear it to about 60. It does not run continuosly so it probably costs me about $5.00 per day to run. Well worth the cost to keep making cabinets for the house we bought.
Posts: 8,395
Threads: 1
Joined: Mar 2000
hueman2 said:
I have an 20 x 20 detached, stick built shop with some insulation that I use year round. Outside temperatures during working time usually above 35 degrees. I'm trying to get away from propane heat but options seem a bit slim. Wood burning stove is not an option. Any thoughts?
When you say "get away from propane", how do you mean? Are you using bottle gas now to provide some heat to the shop? That's what I used to power a small gas burner with blower in my last place (a two-car garage). Although it could heat the place quickly, it also smelled, particularly during the longer cold spells.
If there is no "bulk service" gas line to the shop, either natural gas or LP, and you don't want to put it in, then the only real choice is electric. If I was going electric, then I might look to install infrared electric heat. Ain't gonna be cheap, though.
If it was me, I'd improve the insulation first, then tackle the heat source.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
