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I assume its in the attic space? Have you looked at it? Is it hanging out in thin air with half the existing insulation falling off and gappy joints? If its in good shape and on the attic floor, half buried in the existing insulation, I would likely just lay batts of R12 on top. If you have to get some duct renos done, ask them to include the price of an extra layer of duct wrap for you to DIY, as a seperate line item. In the mean time, call an HVAC supply house or construction speciality place and ask for a price on their product. Brands are subject to a fair degree of regional preference, what I have as standard stock may be unheard of in your area.
Blackhat
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No, I live in the NE, mine is in the basement. Rectangular ductwork, not round.
Mike
I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time! 
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If the basement is kept near normal room temps, there is little to be gained from insulating it then. If the basement is kept very cool, it could be the duct size to those rooms was based on a warm floor. If thats the case, insulate and heat the basement. or insulate the floors and encase the duct work in that insulation.
Blackhat
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How warm are the floors? Are the rim joist and sill plate sealed? Cut down the drafts and the floor will warm up a lot. While on drafts, have you done any air sealing? Ceiling light fixtures, around the new windows, and such will make a huge difference.
Matt
If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
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Do your doors have a sufficient gap underneath them to provide return air to the heater? They should be at least 3/4".... more fore large rooms. If the gap is too small, the room becomes pressurized and won't allow warm air into the room.
Or do you have wall mounted returns near the ceiling?
Try this. Check the temp in the room after the door has been closed for a period of time. Then open the door and see if the room gets warmer. If it gets warmer, you found your answer.
You can also install inline booster fans in the supply ductwork to the room if the above doesn't work.
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EatenByLimestone said:
How warm are the floors? Are the rim joist and sill plate sealed? Cut down the drafts and the floor will warm up a lot. While on drafts, have you done any air sealing? Ceiling light fixtures, around the new windows, and such will make a huge difference.
Depends, the master BR floor is cold, but it's above the garage, so understandable. I insulated the floor, but hasn't helped much. Other floors are warm. Not sure what you mean by the rim joints and plate seal. I have insulated everything, few or no drafts. I would love to have an infrared done, but the only companies doing it are the gas companies.
Mike
I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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Almost no gap, they are carpeted floors and the carpet is close to the bottom of the door. Not scraping, but not far from it.
Vents are floor level. I will try the temp thing, but it seems logical that it would be warmer anyway, with the door open the temps would equalize whatever the difference.
Mike
I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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Scouter said:
Almost no gap, they are carpeted floors and the carpet is close to the bottom of the door. Not scraping, but not far from it.
Vents are floor level. I will try the temp thing, but it seems logical that it would be warmer anyway, with the door open the temps would equalize whatever the difference.
The "supply" vents should be floor level. Are you sure the return vents are also floor level? That would be very odd. The return vents should either be at the top of the wall or ceiling in the bedroom or vented under the door into the hallway and then into a return register either in the hallway or a large room near the bedroom like a family room or living room. Return registers are usually pretty big compared to supply registers. If you don't know which is which, hold a sheet of paper to them while the system is running, it will show you which way the air is moving. Air blowing out is supply and air sucking in is a return. The air needs to flow from the supply vents, through the room, then into the return vents or under the door and back to the heating unit through return ducts to complete the heating loop. If there is no return vent in the room, which is very normal, you will need an open gap under the door to complete the heating circuit. If the air isn't leaving the room, it gets pressurized and warm air cannot flow into the room. The under door gap is an important part of the heating system. If it's clogged, it's no different than closing off a return register. It's all about airflow.
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All vents are floor level. Not on the floor, they are on the wall, but floor level.
Mike
I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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Yes, that is why my initial question was about rebalancing the system. It's been a while since I've been at them, so I'm not sure just how they are set. I haven't changed them, but I have no idea about the two prior owners.
Mike
I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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