Posts: 431
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Mid Hudson Valley, NY
Just purchased a LV Low Angle Jack, and it's fantastic. I have been using it for end grain work, and the results are better than anticipated. I know LV sells a 38 and 50 degree bevel blades, and wanted to get a feel if other woodworkers use multiple blades on this plane, or just use the standard 25 degree blade that comes with the plane. I have read that other woodworkers claim this to be the "jack" of all planes, because with the blade changes, it becomes a very versatile tool to do smoothing, jointing, heavy stock removal and other tasks, and eliminates the use of other planes.
Just curious what others have to say about their use with this plane.
Scott
Posts: 5,661
Threads: 1
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Flemington, New Jersey
I recently got the toothed iron for the 62 and it is wonderful for quick and easy stock removal.
Very easy. It makes the difficult work of flattening kinda fun to do.
Ok, very fun.....
I dont have a scrub plane to compare it with, however.
Ag
Posts: 1,464
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2008
I would rather have an old double iron jack from a flea market.
Posts: 10,717
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
I have all the blades available for it, including the toothed blade. The ones I use most are the 50 deg and the 25 deg. I use the 25 deg blade for shooting. I recently upgraded the 25 deg blade with the PM-V11 blade. I like the PM-V11 very much. I use the 50 deg blade every so often for smoothing nasty grain. It does get a bit hard to push if you try to take off too much. Waxing the sole helps in that respect. For less demanding smoothing tasks, I use my LN No. 4. For coarser work, I use one of my vintage Stanley No. 5's with a moderately cambered blade.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
Posts: 22,682
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Burlington, North Carolina
I've got a lot of blades for mine
I'd go for at least three or four
25* for end grain
38* with a heavy camber for stock removal
toothed blade
38* with a microbevel and the corners slightly rounded for smoothing work.
Posts: 6,678
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2003
Location: Southern California
Just buy 25° blades and add any bevel you want. More flexibility that way. Do buy the PM-V11 blades. IMO, they get as sharp as OI and vastly outlast both O1 and A2.
Thanks, Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
Posts: 2,331
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2005
"When I nod my head, hit it." - M. Howard.
"I think you should learn how to use hand tools before you even touch a power tool." - Sam Maloof
Posts: 478
Threads: 1
Joined: Apr 2013
Quote:
Peter, I hate to be the one to say it but you have a problem. I'm currently getting together a crew of woodnetters for an intervention.
Doesn't seem excessive to me. And kudos to Lee Valley for a versatile line of planes. I have their low angle jack, bevel up smoother, and bevel up jointer. I have seven blades: three 25 degrees, one 38 degrees, one 50 degrees, and both medium and fine toothed blades. They all fit in any of the three planes. A 25 degree blade can be sharpened as is for shooting; another with a 50 degree micro-bevel for smoothing figured wood. Obviously lots of flexibility and if I want to use a 25 degree blade for shooting with the jack (works great!) I do not need to re-sharpen to add a micro-bevel for use in the smoother on figured wood cuz I've got another blade ready for that. Sweet!
Posts: 22,682
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Burlington, North Carolina
I'd love an intervention. It would be fun to see everyone. It's been a while.
But, to be fair those are my blades for all three of my LV bevel up planes.
