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I'm making zero-clearance and a dado throat plates for a TS. I'm using threaded inserts to adjust the plates flush with the deck. They install using an Allen wrench.
Any tips on how to get them in square to the workpiece. This has always been an issue for me as the threads grab and throw it off square a few degrees. They'll work just fine going in a little crooked but it would be nice to know how to set them square.
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Not a problem with an inside/outside real threaded (machine)
insert. Drill, chamfer, tap, insert, pin, done.
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Pat Warner
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Maybe Fein makes a machine that will do that. After all, I've got eight of these to do so spending money is no object.
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I have see a tip before...
This may help ...
Use your drill press (power OFF!)
Chuck up a appropriate bold w/ the head cut off and a double nut
Load the threaded insert onto the bolt
Hand turn the chuck while lowering it into the workpiece
-Brian
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Mine aren't threaded on the inside. Suppose I could cut off an Allen wrench and try that.
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just thread the hardwood and install the screws of choice
this is a KIS situation
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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For my throat plates, I just tap the plate itself and use set screws. Works in good quality plywood, phenolic and corain.
Ralph
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Are you using set-screws?
For throat plates, I just use a common tap and appropriate tap drill and then install a set screw. Easy. The tap will follow a properly drilled hole and won't go in crooked unless you try really hard. Then, the set screw just screws in.
Don't try to cut the threads with the set screw.
For a throat plate, tapping the wood is fine. There is no need for any metallic inserts other than the set screws.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
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I'm doing it differently than most I guess. Seems like tapping, and using elevator bolts and whatnot is a lot of work.
Our Hosts make it even easier than I do I don't like sawing the end out, and would rather bring a 7 1/4" blade through the insert to saw out the blade slot.
In terms of levelers I have had many TS's where the perfect height was a small piece of moleskin, and it also damps any rattle a metal piece would possibly cause.
If the saw needs greater lift. I just use a screw like the video shows, and can't say I've had big problems with that working out just fine. These things aren't made to last forever, I saw out 15 or 20 at a time, once you have blanks, popping a new one in isn't a big deal.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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Use the drill press like Brian said works great I have done it this way.
