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I have a 16.5" delta dp400 drill press-- the gear track that goes up the column for the table height moves quite a bit-- especially in the center (half way up--top to bottom). Seems like it is flexing. This then allows the table to get out of center quite a bit. It just has wedges cut at the top and bottom-- the bottom goes into the column, the top has a ring with a set screw.
Is there any way to make this better? anyone ever glue or weld it on?
Colin
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I believe it needs to be able to move so you can swing the table, so I think welding and gluing are out. Is the top ring pushed down too hard on the top? Maybe greasing our wax will help with the binding. Do you make sure to lock the table before putting downward pressure on it? I bowed the one on my old DP when I was assembling it and setting the chuck because I didn't lock the table.
Bob
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Make sure the collar on top & bottom of the column is level & tight. Mine was off level & caused my rack & pinion to move around when lowering or raising the table.
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i loosened the set screw on the top collar and moved it around, tapped the collar back down with a hammer--didn't really help at all... the flexing seems to be in the center-- it's a long metal strip, and only attached at the top and bottom.
When i lock the table down, it's good, but i have to keep making sure the hole in the table lines up with the quill-- would be nice if it were locked in there.
Colin
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Cdshakes said:
i loosened the set screw on the top collar and moved it around, tapped the collar back down with a hammer--didn't really help at all... the flexing seems to be in the center-- it's a long metal strip, and only attached at the top and bottom.
When i lock the table down, it's good, but i have to keep making sure the hole in the table lines up with the quill-- would be nice if it were locked in there.
Colin
put a wood sacrificial table on top of the cast table. I know I never cared if the center hole lined up. Once the sacrificial one is full of odd holes bondo it, sand it down and use it a bunch more. My cover is over 15 yrs old now and still working just fine.
The design is pretty standard across the Drill press lines; it is meant to allow you some movement for tasks needing a hold down in a particular place or for rotating the table for angled drilling
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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The best you can do is loosen the collar,tap the ring down and re-tighten the collar. You will still get some play. I marked the column and the casting with a sharpie to get within reason after moving the table height.Naturally this is not real accurate,just gets you in the vicinity.
I use a similar drill press for mostly metal working where accuracy is needed.I installed an XY table with a milling vice for this.
If you work mainly with wood then precision to thousands is not needed.A simple cross slide vice is all that is needed for 64ths of an inch.
mike
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Sounds to me like the gear rack is behaving exactly as it is supposed to. Locking the table is the way to go.
My Delta DP table lock lever was a pain as it is short, ie, not enough leverage to easily lock the table. My solution was to bore a length of metal rod to slip over the lever and cross drill both to accept a cotter pin. It is about a foot long or so. Hangs parallel to the column in the locked position.
Now, I can reach over and lock/unlock the table with great ease.
Mark Singleton
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Cdshakes said:
I have a 16.5" delta dp400 drill press-- the gear track that goes up the column for the table height moves quite a bit-- especially in the center (half way up--top to bottom). Seems like it is flexing. This then allows the table to get out of center quite a bit. It just has wedges cut at the top and bottom-- the bottom goes into the column, the top has a ring with a set screw.
Is there any way to make this better? anyone ever glue or weld it on?
Colin
although not a delta, i had the same problem. i tack welded the track to the column- middle of track. then used my angle grinder and grinded the weld just enough for the table to clear.
worked like a charm.
if ya weld it, just remember the column is thinner steel than the track.
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A couple radiator hose clamps around the track and column, spaced out a little above and below where you usually have the table height.
Adding a sacrifical top, especially a more elaborate one with t-tracks and a fence, adds more weight which increases the flexing of the track.
It helps to lift the table up with one hand as you crank it up with the other.
My .02
Karl
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measure once cut remeasure said:
A couple radiator hose clamps around the track and column, spaced out a little above and below where you usually have the table height.
Adding a sacrifical top, especially a more elaborate one with t-tracks and a fence, adds more weight which increases the flexing of the track.
It helps to lift the table up with one hand as you crank it up with the other.
I'm building a table with t tracks, fence...etc currently...that's why i asked this question actually.
