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I am building a "Two-By" table for use outdoors using Doug fir. The top is 16" x 30". The legs will be 26" long 2 x 4's that I might taper. The aprons will be a frame of four 2 x 4's, likely box-finger joined, but I'm open for suggestion there.
I have a good table saw and a set of stacked dado blades. I will be covering the table and the log splitter next to it with a tarp for protection from the rain and finishing with solid-color exterior deck stain. What would you recommend for a strong but quick-and-dirty joinery method of attaching the legs to the aprons in order to support the top?
Rip to width. Plane to thickness. Cut to length. Join.
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Half lap joint puts the weight and stress on the wood as good joinery does and the screws just keep the apron in place on the leg's ledge. Hope this makes sense.
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Shallow mortices or sliding doveltails.
And
joint connector hardware.
Pat Warner
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Location: Lewiston, NY
Shallow mortises and stub tenons, with
corner brackets like these, or wooden ones you make yourself. For outdoors, wooden ones might last longer.
John
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TomFromStLouis said:
Half lap joint puts the weight and stress on the wood as good joinery does and the screws just keep the apron in place on the leg's ledge. Hope this makes sense.
I came up with this idea to extend the concept. Half lap the legs to the longer apron. Glue that up. Then notch the shorter apron to close around the half-lapped joint. Glue that up and perhaps lock it to the half lap joint with a pair of deck screws into the leg portion.
The side of the top overhangs the longer apron and is flush with the ends of the notched shorter apron.
Hmmm... All this to avoid classic mortise and tenon joinery. I may be grasping at a straw.
Rip to width. Plane to thickness. Cut to length. Join.
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You may want to add some corner brackets under the table to help support the legs and prevent some racking when in use. You can screw them into the aprons.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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Edwin Hackleman said:
Hmmm... All this to avoid classic mortise and tenon joinery. I may be grasping at a straw.
Yep. You could have cut the M&T's well before you got a suitable answer to an alternate method.
If I had 8 hours to cut down a tree, I'd do it in 15 minutes with a chainsaw and drink beer the other 7:45 hrs.
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However, at least one post above offered corner brackets to back up the classic mortise and tenon construction. I'm trying to avoid corner brackets entirely. This is outdoor rough and tough construction that I'd like to build primarily with a table saw only. It's not indoor furniture.
BTW, Doug fir is scarce these days. I had to settle for pine dimension lumber.
Rip to width. Plane to thickness. Cut to length. Join.
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You ask a good question because "tough but rough" are slightly conflicting goals. The main reason more elaborate joinery exists is because the results are stronger. Maybe you want " tough and quick" and that answer might depend on tooling. A table saw only is pretty limiting IMO. You could have pegged M&T joints in a couple hours, why not make it look like it was built by ua woodworker? No question about toughness then...
Not what asked for, but I felt it needed saying.
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I have built a few utility/work tables in the manner you have drawn and all have held up well. I typically cut the legs so that they are in the corner supporting both intersecting side of the apron. However, what you have drawn should work well.
I do think you're going to want stretchers between those legs. Something to keep it from racking.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
