Preferred method of drawer construction

[Curlycherry]

I use maple or white ash for my drawer sides and often use walnut or cherry for the fronts and backs. That way the dovetails are really accented. I use shorts, cut offs, sapwood pieces, stuff like that for my fronts and backs. The sides are often wood that is purchased or maybe the color was slightly off in the case of maple. Years ago I got about 5000 bd ft of curly maple and I have used a lot of that for drawer sides. It adds a nice touch. People don't have to know that I got the wood for less than $3/bd ft.

I always use BB plywood (1/4") for all but the largest of drawer boxes. For some really big 24" deep by 48" wide drawers I have used 1/2" BB plywood.

[zaret]

CC that's a beautiful kitchen, great work.

for drawers, it depends on what i'm building. if i'm building a high-end kitchen for somebody else, i have the local guy who has a $2M drawer-making facility make drawers to my specs - typically 5/8" white maple, sometimes figured, dovetailed at all four corners, pre-bored for blum undermounts. if i'm building something that doesn't necessarily warrant those drawers, i either use baltic birch (even 1/2" is fine) or 5/8" maple (sometimes soft maple), and i rabbet the front and back into the sides, and use miller dowels through the sides to provide strength and accent. the bottom is dado'd into the sides and front, and runs under the back.

[deepsplinter]

For 'nicer' drawers, I use a sliding dovetail to attach the sides to the front, simple dado joints in the sides to accept the back, and ¼" baltic birch bottoms (glued in).

For 'utility' drawers, I like a lock-miter joint all around, then attach the front.

I usually use a secondary, light colored solid wood (poplar, birch, sycamore...). Depending on the application, I'll use ½" BB ply.

It sounds like there are as many ways to construct a drawer as there are drawer makers.

[Steve N]

5/8" Poplar, Maple, other white wood, for drawers where appearance counts. I have seen plenty of 1/2" to 3/4" BB ply drawers, and most look presentable, but seeing the plies, and sometimes the edges just furr all up, and it isn't the class act solid wood brings to the table.

Drawer lock is a sound joint, but pulling a drawer and seeing DTs just screams quality. Again like the solid wood, it's the presentation seen on finery. If they are quicker for you to do, nothing wrong with alternate joinery on the backs.

My rule of thumb is furniture, Kitchen or Bath cabinet drawers get the full monte. Shop cabs and basic storage where the utility is of more importance than the appearance, I use ply, and the quick and dirty joinery that will best support the load intended.

[varkpilot]

For those members [like me] who are just woodworkers and not craftsmen and are more concerned with speed & functionality vs beauty, consider pocket-screw joinery.

I know this rubs the wrong way with the craftsmen who take deserving pride in the beautiful pieces they create. I'm not knocking that skill at all!

Just sayin'

[Demps]

Thanks to all for the great input. For current chest of drawers project, I just picked up 50 ft of poplar. Plan to dust off the unused leigh jig and have at it.

[Mr_Mike]

I always do a drawer lock joints on plywood projects and machine dovetails on solid wood.

I do not care for pocket screws in this application.