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I just bevel ripped some pieces for a project. (about 1 1/4" wide x 1 1/4". high)
Just used my pusher that rides on the fence. Nice easy cuts.
Where does the problem come in?
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The problem comes in with wide or long parts that hang unsupported over the left side of the saw. It's a pain, too, if you have an old style fence that you have to slide off the end of the bars to move from one side of the blade to the other. I have a Vega Pro fence on my RT Unisaw so it moves easily. And, for most work the RT is no problem, at least not for me.
John
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I grew up in an era of mostly right tilt saws, and I was taught if you "needed" (as in had to have) a bevel cut on the end of a large work piece, that was a great time to bring the tool to the work, instead of the work to the tool. Back when I used a circular saw, and a cutting shoe, now I use a track saw. Even when I owned left tilt saws all those years I did it the same way. Now I'm back to an older General 350, right tilt, still never an issue.
I could also remember all the times only a bevel cut would work on a piece wider, or longer than 12". It's not something that came up for me too often
I think cove cuts are the one time I always need to tilt my TS, haven't come close to 12" wide on them
For long skinny rips neither has ever given me pause. I always let really small offcuts go to the non fence side, where I see here that some allow them to be on the fence side. I guess that is a preference thing. For me they resemble missiles too much
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GW
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I've only used RT saws until about a year ago, and actually prefer them. The "problem" exists on both types and happens when the waste piece is against the fence. To me, the criticism about RT is unjustified.....but you know what they say about opinions. There is a slick trick using a shop built right angle fence that solves the trapped waste piece issue.
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I'm a Left Tilter.
Years ago when I bought my saw I looked into the pro's and cons and there were basically no pros to a right tilt and at least 2 pros to a left tilt.
1) Moving the fence to the left side of the blade is awkward (translation: dangerous) when used to the fence on the right of the blade.
2) Fence travel is limited.
Yes, there are work arounds, but why bother?
I simply settled for a left tilt model.
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Right tilt saws are much better for bevel crosscuts since the blade tilts away from your hands when using the usually preferred left miter slot.
Since I seem to do more bevel crosscuts than bevel rips, I prefer a RT for that reason.
Greg
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gregr said:
Right tilt saws are much better for bevel crosscuts since the blade tilts away from your hands when using the usually preferred left miter slot.
Since I seem to do more bevel crosscuts than bevel rips, I prefer a RT for that reason.
Greg
Your saw only has one miter slot?
Al
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55 years on a tablesaw - currently 20,000+ saw cuts per year. Right tilt saw. Right handed. Work to left of blade. Left hand far from blade. Body left of kick back zone. Right hand left of blade. Blade tilts away from right hand. Left tilt saw scares the crap out of me as a right hander.
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bandsaw said:
55 years on a tablesaw - currently 20,000+ saw cuts per year. Right tilt saw. Right handed. Work to left of blade. Left hand far from blade. Body left of kick back zone. Right hand left of blade. Blade tilts away from right hand. Left tilt saw scares the crap out of me as a right hander.
I get it! I can use either side, doesn't bother me, but thats me. Respect the tools and you certainly have to be in your comfort zone. I learned on a RT, when I bought a saw, I bought a LT Uni.
My "one miter slot" comment was meant as a joke.
Al
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you do not have to move anything but you do have to set up an auxiliary fence. I been doing this for at least 40 yrs now and it is about as safe a cut as you can make when the fence if properly set this is for cuts less than 1" wide
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