Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
MidwestMan said:
Where do you personally purchase the blades that the video recommends? The guy said to use a ½" blade with 3 TPI and it to be a "skip tooth" type blade. I might as well get some "cool" blocks too.
Back when Fortune made those videos, and was at WIA he was going through BCS saw and tool, however if they still exist they no longer do BS blades. I looked around for quite a while to find another place, and I have been using
these guys For your 93" length they don't show much, but if you were to call I think you would find they can make blades for you out of any of the band materials they carry, and with whatever tooth geometry you need.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 12,882
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
MidwestMan said:
John... I just noticed your response. Somehow I missed it earlier... I am using a Timberwolf blade, that is 3/4" wide and 3TPI. I am using the original spring.
I'll go through the things you mentioned and check it out..... thank you. 
Well, that's a lot of your problem. Despite what the BS manufacturers state in their literature, the Delta 14" cast iron BS, and all of it's clones, cannot adequately tension a 3/4" blade. You are far better off with a 1/2" 3 tpi blade for ripping and resawing. I've even done it with a 1/4" Timberwolf blade. It's narrow, but you can put a lot more tension on it so it cuts straighter.
FWIW, Timberwolf blades are OK, but they dull quickly and when that happens they don't cut straight. A much better choice for ripping/resawing is a bi-metal blade. Lennox Diemaster II, Olson MVP both work well.
John
Posts: 12,882
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
With a riser block he likely needs a 105" blade.
John
Posts: 3,186
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
Location: Near Chicago
jteneyck said:
With a riser block he likely needs a 105" blade.
John
Yes, I am running with a 105" blade.
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
Missed the riser part, yep 105"
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 208
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2014
A few years ago I put a 3/4”- 3 tpi Timberwolf blade in my 14” Grizzly G0457 bandsaw. The spec for the saw says 3/4” max blade width. First time I installed it, I could see there was not much clearance, but everything went fine, and it cut like a champ.
Second time I installed it, it seemed to be aligned when I turned it by hand, but when I turned the power on, I could hear the blade dragging slightly someplace. I immediately killed the power, but with no brake on the saw, it spun down for 20-30 seconds with one side of the blade dragging. I tuned the alignment so it didn’t drag but could never make that blade saw straight again.
I concluded two things: 1. It doesn’t seem to take much unsymmetrical wear to spoil a blade for cutting straight; and 2. the 3/4” blade width didn’t leave enough clearance with my particular 14” saw, despite the spec. I dropped back to using 1/2” as maximum blade width and have not had recurrence of this problem. Most often I keep a 1/4” blade installed and get fine results with that.
Posts: 22,325
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Oakdale, MN
FrankAtl said:
I use a full fence and a drum sander. Works pretty well for me.
Frank
This.
I always drum sand shop sawn veneer
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
