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On turning tools.
Would you get all of one manufacture or different tools from several.
For me I am having a few tools that are starting to wear out and thinking of replacing them when I sell afew more things.
Here are the three I am thinking about getting tools from.
1. Thompson tools
2. D-Way tools
3. Carter tools
Now first I like a few things about D-way and Carter that I/we can get several tools with only 1 handle.
I like D-ways m42 steel and their beading tools which I have seen used.
I like Thompson tools because of the Powered metal.
However, I do not know if I should go for convenience or tool?
What do you guys do or get?
I do have Lyle Jamieson's bowl gouge which is made Thompson. I do think all of them are quality tools but Carter is very high priced so I am leaning to the other two.
Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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I don't have access to any of those, but my choice is P&N, I can get them from Lee Valley and have several now and really like them.
Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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for the most part I stay away from high priced "ordinary" turning tools. Pretty much anything in M2 is good enough for me. P&N or basic Craft Supply tools do just fine for 90% of my turning time.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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FWIW. I got a P&N roughing gouge when I started turning 8 years ago and it's still going strong. Getting a little short and I may have to replace it in a year or so, but I've been very happy with it.
Edit: I was tired last night was thinking of my spindle gouge that is getting short. I just measured my P&N roughing gouge and in 8 years, I've taken ~10mm off of it. It'll last me a long, long time.
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Truth in Advertising: I've never used Carter or D-Way tools. I do, however, own several Thompson bowl and spindle gouges, a host of Sorby, and a few EZ Wood Tools. Best tool, bar far, is Thompson. The steel lasts a lot longer between sharpenings than any of my other tools. I don't use any of my EZ tools for final cuts. I get far better cuts with my Thompson tools than with the carbide tools.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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I have not tried the D-Way or the Carter tools. Doug Thompson's tools are so good that they are pretty much all I buy unless I know that I am going to try some odd end shape experiments on the grinder. Then I grab a Sorby or something that I picked up used.
The Thompson tools can be switched between different handles like the other 2 brands that you mentioned.
If you are talking about a scraper, then you might try one of Robo Hippie's Big Ugly tools. I got the smaller size from him in Atlanta but have not made a handle for it yet.
If you are buying tools for yourself as tools-for-the-teacher, then I recommend Thompson.
If you are buying tools that you will be giving away, then I recommend Sorby. This is not to be cheap. It is because so much of a tool is used up by a new turner as they learn how to sharpen and as they keep changing tip shapes as they experiment and learn. If the student knows that a tool is expensive, then it can inhibit them from learning from trying new things. It can also inhibit them from sharpening as often as they should.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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Ivan
Reed gave me two of the big ugly tools. The 3/4 and 1" and I started making handles for them and have not finished them yet.
The tools are for me to use since I have tools for them to use.
I did have the EZ large rougher and the large round one and gave both of them away early last year. I now regret it since at times I need them.
Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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Arlin,
Good for Reed. I am not surprised. It was a real pleasure to meet and chat with him in Atlanta. I was also lucky enough to bring home one of the bowls that he donated to the Empty Bowls charity fundraiser.
The demo at our turning club meeting this week was on making canes. I need to remember where the demonstrator said that he bought his brass ferrules. I think that they are the right size for a handle for Reed's scraper. I remember that it is a 3/4" flare nut from a plumbing supply on southside, but I may have to ask for a reminder of the name. My copy of the handout is missing the page with the supply sources.
Since the tools are for your use, I would definitely go with Doug as a source. Some people really like the handles that Doug sells, but others don't like how large they are and the aluminum can be a bit chilly when turning in the winter. If you do not already have one of his handles, then I would buy only one to start to see if they fit your hand.
I understand the fondness for the EZ tools. I reach for mine often. They are also my sister's favorite turning tools.
take care,
Ivan
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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Replace? If they are tools you are accustomed to, buy similar, and reduce the re-learning phase. Don't worry about what alloy they are made of, worry about their shape and size and how you present them. I've got tools from high carbon steel to exotic chrome and vanadium alloys. I even have one that features a "famous name" as well as exotic alloys.
NONE of the tools, over nearly 40 years of turning, including some decidedly commercial ones 9"turning for tuition"), is worn beyond use. Worst is probably the rough gouge, since I am lazy and tend to feed him dirty bark and sand-filled pits. He's lost a bit less than half his length in thousands of turnings.
Which tells a further tale. If you're not freehanding when renewing the edge, you're probably taking more metal off than you need to. It's a skill worth its weight in vanadium. I know the different alloys are supposed to last longer than X, but my dislike of using a less-than optimum edge means I freshen often. If I had a fancy grinding setup and a jig, I'd spend more time and metal.
Get what you have that needs replacement and you'll have more money for what you'd like to try in the way of new and different. Then apply them properly, and you'll find that the name means nothing. It's the way you use them that counts.
Oh yes, dry the edges when finishing work on wet, acid woods. Corrosion kills a sharp tool.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Start posting videos on youtube, maybe you can get sponsored.